My E-350 had been sitting for a couple of months, and when I went to use it yesterday the battery (new) was completely dead. I had charged the battery about a month ago, and it wasn't very low when I started. Yesterday when I connected the charger, I found one of the dome lights was 'on' and that's why the battery was completely flat. After the battery started taking a charge (it didn't at first), I charged it for an hour @ 15-20A. Then I went to start it---it cranked fine, but didn't hit a lick. I think I can hear the fuel pump come on for a couple of seconds when I turn the key on, but I'll check fuel pressure with a gauge next. I connected my OBD II reader, turned the key on (KOEO) and it showed that I had no faults, and that it needed to confirm all the state tests (cat. convertor, fuel evap, etc) which I felt may be normal because the battery had been completely dead. Then I selected the reader to show the engine sensors( O2, crank position, cam position, temperature, etc). Usually when I use this on a Ford, it shows that it's checking all 108 PIDS, but on the Econoline, it doesn't show this. Then when you select show all data, it shows a blank screen. I checked this on my son's 97 Taurus, and my 06 Freestar, and it shows data with the engine off.

I don't think this vehicle has the anti-theft system. The keys look normal, just like the old Ford keys used to. And it doesn't have a flashing red light on the dashboard like my FreeStar does. On the internet I see several people that can't start Fords after the battery has been dead, but none show a solution. Any ideas?

Frank

 

Does anybody know how much current fuel pumps normally draw? I listened for the fuel pump to run when the key was first turned on, and didn't hear it. I used a jumper to 'force' the fuel pump to run (I removed the fuel pump relay, and applied 12V to the terminal that connects to the fuel pump). I heard some noise from the fuel tank, but I think it's drawing way too much current.


Frank

 

Frank, the best way to know what is happening is to measure that draw by the fuel pump. That can be done right at the relay. Once you get that figure we can compare it to known good specs. You will need an ammeter in series to measure the current draw.