whenever it`s hot outdoor ( aprox over 80-85 ) and I run for while , the engine stalls ......whether in traffic or on highway ....

then it wont start , exhaust smells ,but no smoke .......If I wait for while ,it starts back and runs ok .....
this is annoying ....

To me, it acts like in the old carburator days ( vapor lock ) could it be ?

when colder (75-80 or less) it runs without any issues

Anyone had this issue ?

thanks ,
Dan

 

I have never had that issue, but before suggesting anything , will you be doing the work yourself or will you just have some shop look at it?

There are some things you can do to help determine if it is electrical or fuel related.
If you plan on doing the work yourself. The procedure is somewhat lengthy so before going further need to know how you choose to handle this.

 

I`m car mechanic for 35 years ,,,,,I wanted to ask before I start searching , just in case someone would chime ....

to me there`s gas and current ......I seriously suspect overheating of the fuel line over the intake .....
Why would it be ok when colder weather .....
Also if I add some fresh gas in the tank ,it starts instantly , weird !

Dan

 

I`m taking the 460 out soon for some modifications : .030 overbore ,balance assy , head porting bigger int valves , better cam , 9,5to1 CR , headers , 28 lbs injectors ,BBK throttle body ,real dual exhaust 2.5" : 400 hp /500ftpds torque ...it should haul way better then the original 245hp /360 ftpfds torque .....:-)

Because seriously when towing my Jeep to AZ or UT it dies uphill , and I cant stand that ! I love the sound of a BBF !!!! No V10 for me !

 

You didn't say what year and if it has a mechanical fuel pump you no doubt remember we went to an electric fuel pump and that helped with the vapor lock issue. Some folks even ran with the hood unlocked, but still latched to allow more air in and out. Are you planning on an aux trans cooler also?

 

1996 EFI 460 electric fuel pump ......I know it helped a lot , but it acts like it !

I tought of putting a scoop on hood
I already have a good size tranny cooler + gauge never over 205 .....mostly 170-185

I will have an engine oil cooler when new engine gets in

 

With the pump in the tank and electric, it should not be vapor lock
.Pretty hard when pump is putting out 35lbs press.
Suggest hooking up pressure gauge to schrader valve on fuel rail and observing pressure at various times.
If pressure drops at time of stalling, what is pressure?
At this point could still be either electrical or pump itself..
Easy 1st try is to hook up voltmeter at the inertia switch located at pass side kick panel and observe power availability on way to pump in tank.
If that is good will need to confirm power is available at pump itself. If all that passes, what is left is possible dirt in tank clogging sock or pump is tired..
Let us know what you find, thanks.
If it is the pump module, best option is get one from Ford !

 

thanks hanky
ill give a look to find the wiring going to the pump
I have a new walbro 255gph and fuel pressure regulator with gauge to compensate the added power of my new 460 ( to be installed soon )

Dan

 

Is any emission equipment required where you plan to run the vehicle? If so , be careful because higher fuel pressure than necessary will result in over rich condition and cook the converter.(s).

 

the RV is totally original and there is no catalytic converter, but the tube shape is exactly as one ... .....( Canadian rules I guess ) ,
the higher pressure fuel pump is due to known lean condition at higher then 3000 rpm ( as per Ford freaks lolll )
Ill install an AFR in the exhaust to keep a close look at the mixture ,Ill try to keep a 13,5 ....those are speed density system !
Dan