92 e250 5.8 where is the pcm power relay
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Joined: Jun 2014
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Hi Hanky
I think you will find this interesting. The day I was going to pull the injectors, the van started smoking considerably less. I put in a can of very powerful injector cleaner in the gas, thinking I would try to clean so-so injectors before taking any out after going through the 15 gallons of gas used for the mixture. We drove until empty after repeatilly stepping on the gas at varying speeds. Half way through this, it sounded like the air intake tubes to the throttle body had come off. After this van was smoking 90 percent less. The other problem, no starts after warm was partially solved. I replaced the plugs which all looked fuel fouled after only two hundred miles. After this I didn't have to take out the fuel relay as often to purge the excessive gas mixture, which You could smell. I took the compression and all cylinders read 130 lbs. the vacum is 15 lbs. and steady. I set the timing to 12 degrees before TDC. I have checked the majority of the vacum lines for leaks especially the intake manifold. I didn't find any using brake cleaner? Also, I found out I thought I had leaking injectors,but, the shradder valve for the fuel pressure guage had a piece of rubber stuck in it. The injectors do not leak down and the fuel pressures are within specs. I do not feel much pressure at the exhaust when the engine is excellerated. The loud air intake sound seems to be around the catylatic converters. I'am thinking they might be clogged? Another reason I suspect this, is because, so much of the of the of the exhaust is coming in the passenger compartment engine cover, from two half penny holes in the emission tube connecting to the back of both cylinder heads. Also, I have very poor excelleration. Before cutting out the converters, will it effect the oxygen sensor right near the seperation? At least it's hard to detect fuel at the exhaust! Do you think I pushed some openings in the cataylic converted using the fuel additive?
Aloha
Jim
I think you will find this interesting. The day I was going to pull the injectors, the van started smoking considerably less. I put in a can of very powerful injector cleaner in the gas, thinking I would try to clean so-so injectors before taking any out after going through the 15 gallons of gas used for the mixture. We drove until empty after repeatilly stepping on the gas at varying speeds. Half way through this, it sounded like the air intake tubes to the throttle body had come off. After this van was smoking 90 percent less. The other problem, no starts after warm was partially solved. I replaced the plugs which all looked fuel fouled after only two hundred miles. After this I didn't have to take out the fuel relay as often to purge the excessive gas mixture, which You could smell. I took the compression and all cylinders read 130 lbs. the vacum is 15 lbs. and steady. I set the timing to 12 degrees before TDC. I have checked the majority of the vacum lines for leaks especially the intake manifold. I didn't find any using brake cleaner? Also, I found out I thought I had leaking injectors,but, the shradder valve for the fuel pressure guage had a piece of rubber stuck in it. The injectors do not leak down and the fuel pressures are within specs. I do not feel much pressure at the exhaust when the engine is excellerated. The loud air intake sound seems to be around the catylatic converters. I'am thinking they might be clogged? Another reason I suspect this, is because, so much of the of the of the exhaust is coming in the passenger compartment engine cover, from two half penny holes in the emission tube connecting to the back of both cylinder heads. Also, I have very poor excelleration. Before cutting out the converters, will it effect the oxygen sensor right near the seperation? At least it's hard to detect fuel at the exhaust! Do you think I pushed some openings in the cataylic converted using the fuel additive?
Aloha
Jim
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Joined: Jun 2014
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Hanky
Do you think this could help the hard up-shift to second? Could it be as simple as replacing an o-ring in the transmission valve body? Also, I like to change the transmission fluid by pouring 12 or so gallons in transmission filler tube while purging it from the return line. Same way with the power steering. Would you use a flushing agent to clean out the transmission radiator cooler. I have never had a professionlly done transmission service using heated back flushing agents. Would you recommend this or another process. I have a little over 100,000 miles. I have had a additive in the transmission for the last 300 miles. I was hoping it might swell some o-rings. There has been no change. My transmission has an overdrive button, this must be the EOD transmission?
Thanks a Million
Jim
Do you think this could help the hard up-shift to second? Could it be as simple as replacing an o-ring in the transmission valve body? Also, I like to change the transmission fluid by pouring 12 or so gallons in transmission filler tube while purging it from the return line. Same way with the power steering. Would you use a flushing agent to clean out the transmission radiator cooler. I have never had a professionlly done transmission service using heated back flushing agents. Would you recommend this or another process. I have a little over 100,000 miles. I have had a additive in the transmission for the last 300 miles. I was hoping it might swell some o-rings. There has been no change. My transmission has an overdrive button, this must be the EOD transmission?
Thanks a Million
Jim
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 73
One more question, for now, is there an additive I can add to synthetic oil to build up the compression. I just put in 10-50 weight oil. I also, added oil to one cylinder during the compression test and it brought it up to over 220 lbs.? Could the rings be sticky from the rich fuel mixture? The oil pressure looks good at over two thirds. I changed the oil and filter with the best I could buy. I really believe that if your nice to your vehicle, it'll be nice to you!
Thanks Again
Jim
Thanks Again
Jim
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,560
Aloha !
The first thing, changing the trans fluid and filter is all you need to consider to take care of the trans. A flush is , in my opinion a money maker for the location doing it.
Next are you disconnecting the spout connector at the dist before setting initial timing to the spec? Once set the computer controls the timing.
130 lbs is not bad compression as long as all the cyls are fairly similar.
There is a good possibility the converter is restricted/plugged. To confirm, connect vacuum gauge and hold the rpm around 2500 rpm. If the vacuum continues to drop , the converter is plugged. They are large and expensive for those years and models.
An over rich condition will cause the converter to get so hot trying to clean up the exhaust it melts the substrate inside the converter. I have seen some people remove the outlet of the converter and run a bar through it to make an opening .It lessens the restriction, but does nothing to help clean the exhaust.
Aloha
The first thing, changing the trans fluid and filter is all you need to consider to take care of the trans. A flush is , in my opinion a money maker for the location doing it.
Next are you disconnecting the spout connector at the dist before setting initial timing to the spec? Once set the computer controls the timing.
130 lbs is not bad compression as long as all the cyls are fairly similar.
There is a good possibility the converter is restricted/plugged. To confirm, connect vacuum gauge and hold the rpm around 2500 rpm. If the vacuum continues to drop , the converter is plugged. They are large and expensive for those years and models.
An over rich condition will cause the converter to get so hot trying to clean up the exhaust it melts the substrate inside the converter. I have seen some people remove the outlet of the converter and run a bar through it to make an opening .It lessens the restriction, but does nothing to help clean the exhaust.
Aloha
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 73
ALOHA
Thanks for the quick reply. I removed the sprout to time it, thanks. The advice for watching for a vaccum drop was just what I was looking for. Also it's nice to know my compression is o.k. I'll take your advice for the transmission service. Nice to save some money! I'am going to run a new exhaust pipe in place of the cataylic conververters. There is a set of emmission tubes running from a tee with a one way valve to the back of both heads. The emissions comes from a pipe attached between the cataylic converters. I would like to bypass this assembly, because to run a new one, I would have to drill and weld into the new exhaust pipe. I would like to cap the tubes off. Could this effect the computer adversely? The engine starts right up, but, even with the new plugs I have to still vent the excess gas mixture by removing the fuel pump relay then turning over to start it. It's not as often as before,but, makes me think this has something to do with excessive back pressure? The various inaccurate fuel pressure readings I was getting because of the stuck shradder valve were a real problem. Just wish I had written them down, it would had made a lot more sense. I forgot, the air filter looks like it is clogged from the rich mixture? Just replaced it. I'am putting in a new PVC valve today. I had a friend that didn't know anything about cars who would clean the air filters in the dishwasher. What do you think about that? Talk to you soon.
ALOHA
Jim
Thanks for the quick reply. I removed the sprout to time it, thanks. The advice for watching for a vaccum drop was just what I was looking for. Also it's nice to know my compression is o.k. I'll take your advice for the transmission service. Nice to save some money! I'am going to run a new exhaust pipe in place of the cataylic conververters. There is a set of emmission tubes running from a tee with a one way valve to the back of both heads. The emissions comes from a pipe attached between the cataylic converters. I would like to bypass this assembly, because to run a new one, I would have to drill and weld into the new exhaust pipe. I would like to cap the tubes off. Could this effect the computer adversely? The engine starts right up, but, even with the new plugs I have to still vent the excess gas mixture by removing the fuel pump relay then turning over to start it. It's not as often as before,but, makes me think this has something to do with excessive back pressure? The various inaccurate fuel pressure readings I was getting because of the stuck shradder valve were a real problem. Just wish I had written them down, it would had made a lot more sense. I forgot, the air filter looks like it is clogged from the rich mixture? Just replaced it. I'am putting in a new PVC valve today. I had a friend that didn't know anything about cars who would clean the air filters in the dishwasher. What do you think about that? Talk to you soon.
ALOHA
Jim
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 73
Hanky
Just want you know this van is going places. Next month I want to paint it with a white Cadillac pearl with a champagne background, for advertising my small body shop and paint business. I have found a clear coat on the internet that has the highest "water" look. I can't think of the name, but it's around a $100 a gallon, plus actvator and reducer. I just need to see how long the clear will last. A good clear should last 12 or more years in bright sunlight. This could be a good deal. I'll send you the pictures and keep you informed.
Thanks Again
Jim
Just want you know this van is going places. Next month I want to paint it with a white Cadillac pearl with a champagne background, for advertising my small body shop and paint business. I have found a clear coat on the internet that has the highest "water" look. I can't think of the name, but it's around a $100 a gallon, plus actvator and reducer. I just need to see how long the clear will last. A good clear should last 12 or more years in bright sunlight. This could be a good deal. I'll send you the pictures and keep you informed.
Thanks Again
Jim
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,560
There are some air filters that claim to be washable although I have never used one. A while back I used to teach some auto mechanics at the adult evening class and I did have one gent that could not understand why he couldn't clean the cooling system in his vehicle with laundry detergent. They are out there !!!!!
A rich mixture should not have any effect on the air filter although a plugged air filter will result in the engine losing power because the oxygen sensor will sense a rich mixture due to lack of air and reduce injector on time fuel delivery to the cyls.
Those pipes you have at the back of the engine are part of the emission system and the air pump is supposed to provide additional air to the exhaust when the engine is cold so it doesn't pollute too much . I don't know how strict any vehicle insp program is where you are, but we were not able to disconnect anything and it had to work. Some places exclude older vehicles too.
Am looking forward to some pix and hopefully you can advise me on the correct way to repaint my daily driver a 1990 Buick Century. They did have some problem with the water base primer and solvent base color coat. What I know about auto body and paint work can very easily fit on the head of a pin. Will wait for your good news when you get the van all set. You and family have a happy Fourth of July,, Aloha !
A rich mixture should not have any effect on the air filter although a plugged air filter will result in the engine losing power because the oxygen sensor will sense a rich mixture due to lack of air and reduce injector on time fuel delivery to the cyls.
Those pipes you have at the back of the engine are part of the emission system and the air pump is supposed to provide additional air to the exhaust when the engine is cold so it doesn't pollute too much . I don't know how strict any vehicle insp program is where you are, but we were not able to disconnect anything and it had to work. Some places exclude older vehicles too.
Am looking forward to some pix and hopefully you can advise me on the correct way to repaint my daily driver a 1990 Buick Century. They did have some problem with the water base primer and solvent base color coat. What I know about auto body and paint work can very easily fit on the head of a pin. Will wait for your good news when you get the van all set. You and family have a happy Fourth of July,, Aloha !
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 73
ALOHA
It's fixed! Thank you soo much Hanky. It was the catylatic converters. The day after it started running better, the van wouldn't go more than thirty miles per hour with slow acceleration. I cut between the two converters, because it gave me straight tubes to punch out the material. Also, I wanted the same size pipe and heat shields in place. I replaced the rest of the exhaust and put in a flow master muffler. The difference was amazing. I can barely smell gas at the exhaust and it runs and now shifts great. The only problem is around 2500 - 3500 rpm and up, there is moderate cutting out. Now, Hanky I'am going for 18 mpg. I will put in electric fans, synthetic wheel bearing grease, 90 weight and engine oil. What do you think about advancing the timing? Any other suggestions. I have set the timing to 12 degrees BTC and it starts with a click.
Hanky, I want to tell you all I know about body work and paint. I can show you how to do a number 10 job. I have had people argue that my paint jobs are factory. The truth is it's easy to do. There is a pretty rigid system put out by the paint manufacters. If you follow this system, your paint jobs will turn out beautiful. There was a revolution in paints during the eighthys and paints are easier to apply. I have a lot to share with you and I will be here for you. I have a doctors appointment, will get back soon.
ALOHA
Jim
It's fixed! Thank you soo much Hanky. It was the catylatic converters. The day after it started running better, the van wouldn't go more than thirty miles per hour with slow acceleration. I cut between the two converters, because it gave me straight tubes to punch out the material. Also, I wanted the same size pipe and heat shields in place. I replaced the rest of the exhaust and put in a flow master muffler. The difference was amazing. I can barely smell gas at the exhaust and it runs and now shifts great. The only problem is around 2500 - 3500 rpm and up, there is moderate cutting out. Now, Hanky I'am going for 18 mpg. I will put in electric fans, synthetic wheel bearing grease, 90 weight and engine oil. What do you think about advancing the timing? Any other suggestions. I have set the timing to 12 degrees BTC and it starts with a click.
Hanky, I want to tell you all I know about body work and paint. I can show you how to do a number 10 job. I have had people argue that my paint jobs are factory. The truth is it's easy to do. There is a pretty rigid system put out by the paint manufacters. If you follow this system, your paint jobs will turn out beautiful. There was a revolution in paints during the eighthys and paints are easier to apply. I have a lot to share with you and I will be here for you. I have a doctors appointment, will get back soon.
ALOHA
Jim
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,560
ALOHA
Glad you found the problem and got it squared away. The cutting out problem might just go away after you drive it a while. Advancing the timing might be inviting problems since the computer controls that. You sure did a lot of work on this van and it should serve you well.
ALOHA
hanky
Glad you found the problem and got it squared away. The cutting out problem might just go away after you drive it a while. Advancing the timing might be inviting problems since the computer controls that. You sure did a lot of work on this van and it should serve you well.
ALOHA
hanky