No codes. Major hesitation then "CLUNK" into forward or reverse. Sometimes feels like I've "hit" something as I'm backing up. (yet no bodies)

Runs a bit rough as if a head gasket blown. No oil in coolant, does not burn oil.

New van for me w/ 210,000 miles. Waiting for service book to guide me in my attempt to remove tranny & send out for rebuilding. Any tips anybody?

 

What was that stuff in the trans pan? It is normal to find sediment from bushing and clutch wear. Was your OD Lite on or flashing? Electrical problems show up as some weird problems. Not actually being there, are you absolutely sure the trans is wiped out? You might be spending a lot of $$ when it may not be necessary. I'm only trying to save you some extra work. Did you check all the fuses and connections to the trans?
If I am underestimating your diagnostics, please accept my apologies. That E4OD can take a lot of abuse, and I have seen that abrupt clutch application be caused by an electrical problem. Please let us know what you find. Thanks, hanky

 

There is a bunch of metal shavings in the bottom of the pan plus the magnet is completely covered as well.

I have no diagnostic skills... just lot's of driving & cars over the last 30 years.

No OD light flashing. No codes.

This was a commercial repair van that was well maintained but has 210,000 city miles.

It's just not shifting right. Hesitates going into gear & then clunks into gear. It does a weird "bump" while in reverse that feels like I've hit something.
It seems to be not as bad at first start-up.

I'm just guessing there is some internal damage with so many shavings in the pan.

 

You were right! Good Guess and good diagnostics no matter how you put it, metal shavings are not good. It needs to be disassembled and examined thoroughly and there will be plenty to clean to make sure all those shavings are gone. I suspect you have some clutch problems internally. It will be interesting to learn exactly what they find.
Let us know, thanks,,,,hanky

 

All-righty.... I decided to just change out the fluid & filter since it was so clogged. It's got a "whine" in first but is shifting better without the hesitation & "clunk" into gear.
In R it did have a bit of a "hiccup" once.

Now driven about 20 miles. Fine in upper gears and cruising at 50 mph.

I'll probably drive it a bit & change the fluid once again after a couple thousand miles... maybe I'll get lucky and avoid the rebuild for awhile.

 

Maybe if you keep tabs on the fluid and filter , you might get the shavings out of there, but they just might be in the converter and eventually into the valve /solenoid body, oh yeh in the oil cooler too, and you know how these things go . It will crap out at the most inconvenient time. Lets hope your luck holds out until you are ready to spring for a rebuild, Have a great day! ,,,,,,,,,,,hanky

 

Uh oh... hanky - you are sooooo right! <<It will crap out at the most inconvenient time.>>
Zipped into the hardware store yesterday in the middle of a job and "CRUNCH" went the tranny when shifted into reverse to back outta my parking space. It was loud and felt like I'd been hit by a truck.
It won't go into reverse and feels like it only has third gear forward. Darn.

I see someone posted an engine / tranny from a 2008 E350 - is it possible to swap them in?
Thanks for listening to my tales of woe.

 

The trans may be the same , but you can bet the ECM's are different. Ford does some wierd things year to year and it might be a good idea to check if the MLPS (manual lever position switch) , Trans range selector etc., all the same part but maybe different #'s and maybe internal changes, are different. A good Ford Parts man will be better able to answer as to just how much difference there is between the two , trans and attached parts.
Have done some work on the earlier trans but none on the 08. If the parts man can let you know what years were the same you may be able to obtain a used unit from a salvage yard .

 

Thanks, I'd think there would be some differences. I'll check w/ my local parts counter guy.
I'm thinking the most economical fix would be for me to pull it and get it in to a reliable local rebuilder then reinstalling it myself.
This'll be a first for me. Have a repair manual, jack stands and bunch 'o tools. Now just need to find some friends to help me push it back into my work area.

 

Please don't forget to make sure the converter and oil cooler are cleaned out also.