Yep! That's the exact procedure to replace the switch. That's why I'm confused as to why even the blinkers no longer work since they worked on the old one. I took photos of the plug to make sure the wires went back into the right places in the plug. Wasn't sure if it was a junk replacement part. I thought about reinstalling the old one to see if I could get my blinkers back. I'm actually stuck at my gf's parent's house out of state trying to get back on the road. (Right now we're getting hit with what's left of storm Zeta. I'm hoping to get back under the dash this afternoon.)

 

Sometimes something simple like a connection within the plug may have been allowed to push back out when connecting the plugs.
We always after reinserting the pins back into the plug, pull on the wire to make sure it stays locked in place.
There is as you know, a tab that you need to depress on each pin in order to remove it from the plug end.. If that tab is not spread back into it's original position the pin will push out when the plug is pushed together. All you need to do is lightly pull on each wire coming from the switch end, and if it comes out, you found your problem. Sometimes when we reinsert the ends into the plug and pull on them the tab doesn't quite catch and the procedure needs to be repeated. Watch out for that..
Glad you did it the right way, never hurts to check the fuses again, don't make the mistake of assuming anything, check and confirm each step and do the job once.

 

Ok, I pulled on all the wires on the connector to verify they're ok. Plug is pushed in all the way. Wasn't sure where to start looking for electrical issues so I started at the fuse block. Probing each side to verify the same voltage and my back-up fuse is reading -068.3 mv and the other side is settling at -0.0mv. I'm not sure what that means but I would assume they should test the same. Am I onto something here?

 

No power going thru the fuse? Can you connect the hot side of the fuse directly to the brake light wire, and see if they will work?

 

I don't remember if the key has to be on for the stop lights to get power, you might check that fuse supply once more with the key on and see what you get.

Do the 4 way flashers work?

 

If it had to go thru the ignition, then both sides of the fuse would be dead, right?

 

I would be inclined to agree, but since my memory bank is a little foggy, I have to start from scratch.
Technically,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,there should be no voltage present if it is supplied from the ign sw.when the key is off, .
If that is correct, why are we getting a reading ? Another circuit might be using the stop light circuit for a ground, if that is the case , need to isolate or proceed to do further testing.

 

Electrical has always been my weak area.

 

Ok, somehow I am back to having turn signals only again (one step forward, I think) lol
My crazy differential in the backup circuit is no longer there as well. Still no brake lights, 4 way flashers or horn (haven't checked cruise). Which fuse in the box controls the brake lights? Thanks!

 

Having difficulty dulling up correct fuse panel pic, so since you have the voltmeter, lets go back to checking all the fuses. One of them has to be for the stop lights.

What you need to do is remove each one at a time , make sue the retainer clips are clean and provide good contact with the fuse.and replace the fuse before going on to the next fuse unless there is a fuse rating on the fuse panel for each fuse location , then you don't have to worry about putting the wrong size fuse into the slot.
If you have 12 volts at one end of a fuse as you know you must have 12 volts at the other end.
Some may be controlled by the ign sw, in which case you check those with the key on. You may not get any reading on one or two unless the headlight sw is on.and that would be the fuse for the dash lamps.(5 amp)
What did you move that got the signal lamps back working?
That is why we check after moving each wire/connection because if you disturb several wires/things then check, you have no idea which wire has the problem.
This is not a difficult thing to check out you just need to write the steps of what you want to check and do them one at a time and check for results.
The better way to go about this might be to remove the fuse panel and look behind it for any corrosion or loose wires., then confirm where the power comes in and where it is distributed. Then you have some idea of where you want to go check for 12 volts. Right now we got into some many places we have no idea where we are going.
I will attempt to guide you, but you need to do the checks thoroughly and take no shortcuts.Make sure you have all good clean and tight ground connections, starting from the battery neg terminal. Make sure you have good ground connections back at the tail and stop lights.also up front
I believe your vehicle uses the signal lamps in the rear for stop lights too.If you have 12 volts coming into the stoplight sw check if you have 12 volts going out of the switch when the brake pedal is depressed. Let us know what you find with this check, thanks.