I have an e450 shuttle bus, 2006.
Hit a bump, got the wrench light, then it said “check gages” and I started to lose power. Pulled over, now it won’t start.
Tried the inertia fuel switch (deep in the passenger side by the door on mine) no luck. I have a convenient panel over the fuel pump. It makes no sound when the key is set to run.
Batteries are fine, it cranks and turns, but doesn’t run.
Fuse looks fine, relay was hot. Going to try replacing them, and the fuel pump, but open to other ideas, because I currently have a full tank of gas and am nervous about opening the tank.

 

Before opening everything up to possibly replace a good fuel pump, consider doing the following.

Remove the covering that covers the inertia switch assy.
You can use a test light or multimeter to check if power is getting to and out the inertia switch assy when you first turn the key on. Let us know what you found.
The power coming in is only for 2-3 seconds unless the engine is cranking and attempting to start.

 

Thank you. Currently on the side to the freeway. Heading to the store for parts, will be a few hours. Don’t have a multimeter with me, but I could get one. Is it ok to short the wires on the reset switch if it’s not working?

 

If you suspect the inertia sw is not working correctly, you can make a temporary jumper to bypass the sw to prove it is the source of the problem.
It is after all a safety feature and bypassing it and forgetting to replace it, if necessary, is not smart.

 

tried jumping it, no whine from the pump, no start. Tank is full. Gonna walk back to town and get a new pump.

 

There is a fuel pump driver module that supplies power to the fuel pump based on required fuel pressure.
Located under the rear of your vehicle generally mounted to a frame cross member. Before dropping the tank to replace a possibly good fuel pump remove the driver module and look for corrosion on the back of the driver module between the driver module and the cross member. If you see a problem there consider replacing the driver module.

 

Fortunately I have a little access panel to the fuel pump so I don’t have to drop the tank. I wasn’t aware of the little tool needed to disconnect the fuel line, but I did unplug it and plug it back in. Now the pump makes a little squeal sound when I turn the key, but there’s still no start. So it seems like it’s getting power now, but maybe is mechanically busted.. unless something else could be wrong like the crank sensor? I sure hope not. But it was not making sound before and now it is, so I’m leaning towards fuel pump being broken.

 

ok after much finagling got some codes:
P0122
P0193
P0223
P2110
so not the pump, but a bunch of throttle position sensor issues and one fuel rail pressure sensor high

 

I believe your vehicle has Electronic Throttle Control.
There could very well be a problem with that unit. They are not serviceable and usually have to be replaced.
The 2110 code pertains to a possible electrical problem that can place your vehicle in Limp Mode.
If the other codes are corrected that 2110 code may go away on its own.
To diagnose this problem correctly , a capable scan tool should be used . Not something you can repair on the road.

 

Hi the fix was the crank sensor plug being slightly unplugged. Plugging it back in got it running again. What a lot of hassle for something so simple! Thank you for your help.