Hello Truckers,
My apologies in advance if this is not in the right category. Also, I did try to search around but couldn't find anything related to the issues I am having.
Just signed up at this forum here as i stumbled upon an issue with my work van. 2008 Ford Ecoline E250 4.6L

While I was driving, I noticed my dashboard lights went all crazy and the odometer with speedometer needles dropped to zero. The Van wasn't turning off and the engine was still running. However, i went to a side street and turned the engine off and it would not start.
I disconnect the positive terminal from the batter and then reconnect it and that made it start again. With this method, i was able to get the van safely home and try to figure out what is wrong with it. Now even after disconnecting the positive terminal and reconnecting it, the van won't start. I did get a different terminal connector for it and cleaned all the terminals and negative connector wire to the body.
While doing some research and talking with a few mechanics they mentioned that the ignition switch on this van does go often. So, after purchasing a new ignition switch, i took Iff the old ignition switch under the steering column and while pulling the little handle on the switch up and down i notice that it won't start. On the cluster only the airbag and battery light would come on and nothing else.

I purchased a new ignition switch and reassembled everything and hoped for it to start but it didn't.
My ignition that the key goes into is about a year old and it was working perfectly. However, i did have another one from this Van that I checked with, and still no crank no start, and no power.
I checked all the fuses inside the engine bay and there is power to all the fuses from both side.
Honk works when the key is in ignition two, so I swapped the honk relay with the ignition relay and the old ignition relay which was now the honk relay did work as it honks. I also swapped all the relays to the honk connector, since they are all the same part number and the van would hunk.
After looking at the fuse manual I noticed there is two fuses for the cigarette connectors. One of them was a 10A and the other was a 20A. On the manual called for both of them to be a 20A so I changed it.
This made the van start up again and power was coming to OBD now. Cigarette lighters where also working.

So after a day of parking, I went to the van today to see if it start again and sure enough it doesn't. The only lights on the cluster instrument this round is the battery, airbag, and a green light that after investigating looks to be the speed control.
both cigarette lighter does work as i tested by connecting a GPS connector to them and it does get power from both lighter connectors. However, when i check the fuses with my light checker than the light checker doesn't indicate getting power.
also, since there is no power to the ignition some of the fuses don't get power.

I am kind of lost at what to look for and any help would be appreciated.

 

You have a lose of power to the ECU if the CEL does not shine at key on.. Confirm the power and grounds, from battery to fuse box. Use a test light, not a meter, you can have 12vdc on a circuit but it may not support a load (amps)

 

I have checked all the fuses with a light tester. The fuses inside the engine bay all have power and the light tester shines when i test both sides of the fuses. However,
only few fuses get power when i test the fuses Inside the van. I assume since there is no start/cranck than some of the fuses inside the van aren't getting power.
I did check the fuses inside the van and they are not broken. It's just no power coming through.

battery is good and full of charge. The terminals are good and solid. Ground cable to the body is good as well. I've not opened up any fuse box to see how the wiring is from under neat or if there is a short. I was going to do a oham test and see if we have good ground.

Any other suggestion is appreciated

 

Rather than an Ohm test start by conducting voltage drop tests, On both the power and ground sides.

Check that the ECU is getting good powers and grounds, note that was plural..

Do you have good power on pin 16 of the DLC and solid grounds on pins 4/5, these tests MUST be on LOADED circuits.

 

I've not done a voltage drop test. I'll look into that.
I could do a google search but any suggestion on which pins to check for ground and power on the ecu?
If i understand correctly, DLC is OBD than i would say yes.. On the diagram it shows that one of the cigarette lighter is sharing power with the OBD. I mentioned above that after changing a wrong fuse for the cigarette lighter the car started. However, after a day it didn't. I did check the fuses for the ciggerte lighter and they were okay and not blown. I also put my GPS in both lighters and the GPS turned on. I should say that i've had the van for five years and that fuse was there when i bought it and the van never had issues.

Also, I assume that the OBD is working as last time i took the van to a buddy to check for codes after the van turned on and there was no code and he had no issues connecting to ecu.

 

Any time the ECU loses power, ALL DATA is erased, and the specs are returned to factory

 

OBD II diagnostic interface pinout diagram @ pinoutguide.com

 

Thanks for the link. I will check tomorrow. you happen to have a link for diagram on ecu pins?

 

Please be aware, some fuses will not have power unless the key is in the on position.
I hope you see this before getting too involved looking for a problem that does not exist.

 

ya, i realize that.
Do you happen to know the steps the van takes in order to start?
Which components in what order need to get power in order to get crank/start

I know that power goes from battery to fuse box in the engine bay and everything there gets power. From there where do the wires go that needs to give the ignition its power. cuz to me it seems like this is an issue before ignition but after fuse box in engine bay.
Would that be ECU or are there anything else involved?