Hi guys I have a 2016 Ford edge with codes c2007 and c1034 lights and beepers in the dash go crazy. Checked brake pads and they are low in the rear on right side. Could this cause the problem? Any ideas what else to check? Thanks for any help?

 

C2007 is Right Motor, circuit open/circuit voltage out of range/incorrect position/internal fault. All these are for the right rear parking break, there is a subset of codes that you will need a high end scanner to view.
C1034 is Parking brake actuator stuck.

Based off your codes and my experience I would say the right rear parking break actuator is bad.
Did you by any chance have a rear brake job completely recently?
Remove the right rear wheel and complete a visual inspection of the wiring harness that goes to the parking brake motor, its the black thing bolted to the caliper.
If you would like I am happy to supply wiring diagrams so you can do electrical testing to check for wiring issues before replacing the actuator.

 

No I have not done brakes yet. A wire diagram would be great. Do you by chance have access to a pinpoint test? Thanks for the info!

 

Here are wiring diagrams and connector faces, its only two wires so its easy other then the fact the connectors are about 20 feet apart, buy about 20-30 of wire (I would buy at least 14 gauge) and crimp/solder a alligator clip to each end of the wire.
C2007 is suppose to be diagnosed before other codes. Really all you are doing is checking if the wires between the ABS module and the parking brake motor to be less then 5 ohms and they are not shorted to each other, or either wire shorted to power(with key on) or ground(with key off), in addition checking the resistance of the parking brake motor itself to be less then 10 ohms.
Pin point tests lose all formatting and the yes/no questions when copy and pasted to this website so they are next to useless.

 

This is great information thank you very much!!

 

Found both wires broken in the short jumper harness to the motor! Thanks again for the info!

 

Did the wheel by any chance cause the damage to the jumper harness? I ask because the escapes had that issue for one or two years where if the harness was not't routed quite right and the vehicle had a certain size rim they found it could rub through the jumper harness. I have never seen this issue on any vehicle other then a escape though. If that is what happened make sure to zip tie the harness to the control arm so it cannot be damaged in the same way again.

You can take this either way but I know ford says to replace the jumper harness if there is damage to it, usually wire damage under warranty call for normal crimp or solder repairs but they are clear to replace the harness.
I assume it has to do with the fact that the jumper harness is constantly flexing when driving and they fear this will fatigue a repair and create greater risk of said repair failing. I personally trust my crimps enough to do it on my own vehicle but I do replace the harness on customers vehicles.