2009 Escape V6 - Idle Dipping
Hello all,
I have an 09 Escape with the V6 that has started idling a bit rough. It seems most noticeable when cold and when coming to a stop when the engine is returning to idle speed. I recently replaced the plugs and throttle body. I replaced the throttle body because the engine was dying 2-3 times a week usually on my way to work and I read somewhere that it may be a failsafe due to sticking throttle. When I took the old throttle old, it did stick if I pushed it all the way closed. When it died, it would start right back up. It hasn't done it in a few weeks since replacing but the rough idle remains.
The only codes I have are 2-3 codes for major evap leaks but I believe those are unrelated because I'm unable to fill the fuel tank more than 3/4. Pretty sure this is a different issue. Suppose it's possible though.
not sure where to look now and I don't want to just throw parts at it. IAC? MAF?
Any ideas what to check?
thanks in advance,
Dan
I have an 09 Escape with the V6 that has started idling a bit rough. It seems most noticeable when cold and when coming to a stop when the engine is returning to idle speed. I recently replaced the plugs and throttle body. I replaced the throttle body because the engine was dying 2-3 times a week usually on my way to work and I read somewhere that it may be a failsafe due to sticking throttle. When I took the old throttle old, it did stick if I pushed it all the way closed. When it died, it would start right back up. It hasn't done it in a few weeks since replacing but the rough idle remains.
The only codes I have are 2-3 codes for major evap leaks but I believe those are unrelated because I'm unable to fill the fuel tank more than 3/4. Pretty sure this is a different issue. Suppose it's possible though.
not sure where to look now and I don't want to just throw parts at it. IAC? MAF?
Any ideas what to check?
thanks in advance,
Dan
Hi Dan,
A good practice is to correct the known incorrect functioning items, before going on to look for other possible problems that may not even exist.
Just for example , if a purge valve is sticking , or a vent valve in stuck closed, they could affect idle quality. These possibilities, since indicated by the codes, should be checked out and corrected before going on a wild goose chase. These systems are all interrelated and any one of them could have a problem that affects the way the vehicle performs. If you are not familiar with the systems you may need to consult someone that is , AND has the tools to test and confirm proper operation. Otherwise ,you could windup replacing a lot of good parts and that gets expensive.
A good practice is to correct the known incorrect functioning items, before going on to look for other possible problems that may not even exist.
Just for example , if a purge valve is sticking , or a vent valve in stuck closed, they could affect idle quality. These possibilities, since indicated by the codes, should be checked out and corrected before going on a wild goose chase. These systems are all interrelated and any one of them could have a problem that affects the way the vehicle performs. If you are not familiar with the systems you may need to consult someone that is , AND has the tools to test and confirm proper operation. Otherwise ,you could windup replacing a lot of good parts and that gets expensive.
hmm... you're right. Thanks for the sound advice. I guess I should know better 
So on that note, a few weeks ago, I tore what I could see of the evap system apart. I removed the filler neck, blew out that vent line up to the neck, made sure everything was clear, dropped the charcoal canister, blew out all of the lines in and out of the charcoal, lifted up the back seat to access the top of the fuel tank, removed those vent lines and that sensor (not sure what it does), blew them out in each direction. Looks like there is a tip-over valve on the tank filler neck which seems to be moving just fine.
Everything seems clear on the evap system. I didn't check the charcoal canister itself (not sure how) but I did shake it and it was solid, didn't sound like a maraca
I'm not sure where to go from here... I can post the specific codes when I get home tonight. I'd like to be able to fix it myself if possible, it couldn't be too difficult.
any ideas on other stuff to check on the evap system? The one thing I don't think I checked or remember seeing was a hose from the motor back to the charcoal canister. Does that exist?
thanks,
Dan

So on that note, a few weeks ago, I tore what I could see of the evap system apart. I removed the filler neck, blew out that vent line up to the neck, made sure everything was clear, dropped the charcoal canister, blew out all of the lines in and out of the charcoal, lifted up the back seat to access the top of the fuel tank, removed those vent lines and that sensor (not sure what it does), blew them out in each direction. Looks like there is a tip-over valve on the tank filler neck which seems to be moving just fine.
Everything seems clear on the evap system. I didn't check the charcoal canister itself (not sure how) but I did shake it and it was solid, didn't sound like a maraca

I'm not sure where to go from here... I can post the specific codes when I get home tonight. I'd like to be able to fix it myself if possible, it couldn't be too difficult.
any ideas on other stuff to check on the evap system? The one thing I don't think I checked or remember seeing was a hose from the motor back to the charcoal canister. Does that exist?
thanks,
Dan
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