Ford Escape The newest smaller SUV from Ford allows the buyer to have the use of an SUV without the hunger for fuel that so many SUVs display.

2011 Ford Escape AWD shudder even in coast

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 17, 2021 | 04:55 PM
  #1  
cepope13's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 5
Default 2011 Ford Escape AWD shudder even in coast

I have a 2011 Ford Escape XLT 2.5L AWD that INTERMITTENTLY shakes/shudders forward and back across the whole vehicle (which I can also feel in the steering wheel) usually after driving 10-20 minutes at speeds higher than 35 MPH. Bad enough that you think the car will fall apart. Even if I put it in NEUTRAL it does the same thing as I coast and the jerking is proportional to speed.

Things I've tried:
1. I noticed the boot on driver side cv axle was leaking so I had that replaced.
2. I changed out the transmission fluid. (Before thinking of switching to neutral to eliminate transmission/engine/transfer case).
3. turned off traction control system and overdrive with no effect.
4. odbii scan shows no fault codes

Searches say it could be:
1. engine mounts = but I don't get vibration at idle/parked
2. tires = I don't see how it could be intermittent if it's the tires and over such a wide range of speeds
3. vacuum leak/coils/injectors/etc. = doesn't seem like it could be engine-related since it jerks coasting in neutral and no error codes

History: this car was in a front-end fender bender and had a lot of work done on the engine compartment about 6 years ago.

I will change the transfer case oil next just because it probably needs it anyway. But does the transfer case even do anything when coasting in neutral?

I'm starting to suspect the drive shaft. If that were binding it would explain the jerking front to back.

Any ideas what to try next? Thanks, Clark
 
Old Jul 20, 2021 | 08:12 AM
  #2  
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,615
Default

I would consider having a qualified shop check out the 'All wheel drive" differential..
 
Old Jul 20, 2021 | 09:14 AM
  #3  
cepope13's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 5
Default

Is there a reason you'd suspect the differential versus U-joints on the driveshaft? (Although I did inspect u-joints no give on prying, no obvious grease leak, retaining clips still in place, no clunking switching from drive/reverse.)

I did check the level/top off the transfer case and rear differential oils. Neither had metal that I could see. No effect.

Forgot to add that when coasting in neutral there's no pull to either side so seems like it has to be driveshaft or transfer case or rear differential, i.e. something in the center that affects both sides the same. Thanks
 
Old Jul 21, 2021 | 05:35 AM
  #4  
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,615
Default

Because the front and rear axles rotated at different speeds , tire variation, there had to be a differential to handle the different speeds of the axles.. Different methods were used to accomplish this.Some were called interaxle differential.
 
Old Jul 26, 2021 | 05:34 PM
  #5  
cepope13's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 5
Default

I took the differential cover off. No metal on magnet and oil is clean. Pics attached.

More observations:
1. I think I could drive indefinitely under 30 mph without it happening. Once over 45 mph it may start and if so it shakes all the way to 0 mph if I coast in neutral. No pull left/right.
2. I hear a creaking when I let off the brake after it has sat for a while.

Thanks



 
Old Sep 11, 2021 | 05:45 PM
  #6  
Todd Bryant's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2
Default

Do a visual inspecton first on a lift and check all wheels as the awd system requires all 4 wheels be the same size TOO, pull and tug each wjeel for bearing and other loose components FIRST.
 
Old Sep 12, 2021 | 11:35 AM
  #7  
cepope13's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 5
Default

Sorry, forgot to post SOLUTION: Turned out it was the brakes. The front passenger assembly was running about 600 degrees hotter than the driver side. I guess it took 15-20 minutes to get the heat up to warp the rotor enough that it was making significant contact with the caliper. I'd ruled brakes out early on (even though it felt like an ABS malfunction) because the car wasn't pulling to either side in coast. Anyway, new brake assembly and the problem went away. Thanks for the help.
 
Old Sep 12, 2021 | 12:25 PM
  #8  
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,615
Default

Could you please tell us in detail all of what they replaced, thanks.
 
Old Sep 13, 2021 | 04:57 PM
  #9  
cepope13's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 5
Default

Rotor, caliper, and pads. Which was likely overkill but I'd given up and taken it to a shop at that point so any parts savings would have been eaten up by a second visit.
 
Old Sep 14, 2021 | 07:52 AM
  #10  
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,615
Default

Thank you for the update.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Gavin Tracy
Ford Escape
1
Dec 24, 2020 08:02 AM
snakeandshake
Ford Escape
3
Oct 5, 2019 05:14 PM
fordmandan29
Ford Bronco
2
Sep 1, 2011 04:35 PM
77ford400
Ford F-150
3
Dec 22, 2010 10:35 PM
Yz125yamaha10
General Tech
1
Jan 14, 2008 03:27 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:41 PM.