Hi everyone - I had an interesting issue with my 2016 Ford Escape this week and prompted me to join this forum, I'm wondering if anybody has any ideas what might be up.

Because of the current lockdown situation I haven't been driving much at all, possibly didn't use the car for a little over two weeks and trying to leave the other day noticed that both my main and backup key fob didn't open the door any more. I managed to get in with the physical key, thinking it was the battery completely drained but that didn't seem to be the case, put in the key and managed to start the engine without any problem at all. Immediately after I just put in the key to the ignition the key fobs both started working again.

I did a 30-40 minute drive to make sure the battery is charged and will keep doing that a few times a week but it doesn't actually seem this was a battery problem (the battery is also only 5 or so months old).I ended up using an OBD-II code reader and got back the code "B10D7 (PATS) Key". They are original keys and everything seems to be working fine again, should I be worried about this or can I safely clear the code?

Was wondering if maybe it went into some sort of hibernation mode to prevent the car battery from draining completely? It seems as soon as I went in with the physical key and started the car it was all immediately resolved. Would love to figure out what could've caused this.

 

There are some parasitic loads in newer vehicles that are completely normal.
If the total of parasitic load exceeds a certain level, as determined by the particular manufacturer and vehicle, then the reason should be found and corrected.


Jot down the code and hang on to the note. Then you can clear the code and see if it returns. Chances are it probably will not return.

 

I had this with my 2003 Escape. I noticed someone called me on my phone after I parked and my keys were right next to the phone. When I got back to the car the remote lock didn't work but I could get in with the physical key. As I had more shopping to do I came back later and now the remote worked but the car wouldn't start. RACQ said it might be my battery but the car was trying to turn over. So I got RACQ to come fit a new battery but that didn't fix it. He said it might be the head gasket, but my mechanic says probably not. I believe it's something to do with the key. I'd be interested if anyone has any insights please?

 

So we are on the same page,
When we go to start the engine, we turn the key to the start position and the starter when working, cranks over the engine to start it.
When the engine starts running ,we say it fires up or starts.

Now what we need to know when you say it won't start, which is happening, does it crank over , but the engine doesn't start running or , it doesn't even crank over?
Two separate problems with very likely different causes.

An engine can crank over and not start with a really bad head gasket or it can also start and run with a bad head gasket. I doubt if that is the case here.
You should have at least 2 working keys, do you? If so, you can get another key made and code it yourself or have a locksmith or dealership do it. A locksmith will most likely be less expensive. Keys can sometimes go haywire and if it works with the second key , you know the problem is with the key and can get another at your convenience.

 

Thanks Hanky.The car cranked a little but did not fire when the RACQ guy tested a new battery. So he put the old battery back. I later went to try again and it did not start at all. On second attempt something computery happened in the dash and I just got a clicky whirry sound. It may be the starter relay fuse. Will investigate in the morning. Little old lady here with a dog eared manual