Tramsmission Locked
#11
'Expand' on the burn, crisp, trailer part.....
The factory trailer connector or harness shorted, burned ?
The problem there if so,, is the trailer connector lamp circuits (loads) go into the SJB (smart junction box) and the functions for right/left turns and stop lamps for the trailer adapter are controlled by the SJB's internal logic module. The 15amp fuse is circuit protection, and the ABS, PCM, High Mount Stop, Cruise all share that 15amp,, as well as a Brake Pedal Position Switch as an 'input' into the SJB for the logic control. Not the same as the old tech where the Shift Interlock was more or less a component on the brake lamp circuit. With any circuit protection, fuses should pop well before any wires cook. If chaffing, rubbing to where the wire over time takes some amps/heat,, before the amperage overload, possible but... The concern would be 'why' the components toasted, and if any damage was done to the SJB. More so of a concern if at some point a higher amp fuse was installed because of the shift lock issue.
Did you purchase the Escape new, tow with it? The other repairs,, what did they involve, or correct?
Could be one of the other partner components, and possible to unplug them to see if the fuse holds, but if the tow harness burned, I'd suspect it took something with it, or created another harness connector issue somewhere else...
The factory trailer connector or harness shorted, burned ?
The problem there if so,, is the trailer connector lamp circuits (loads) go into the SJB (smart junction box) and the functions for right/left turns and stop lamps for the trailer adapter are controlled by the SJB's internal logic module. The 15amp fuse is circuit protection, and the ABS, PCM, High Mount Stop, Cruise all share that 15amp,, as well as a Brake Pedal Position Switch as an 'input' into the SJB for the logic control. Not the same as the old tech where the Shift Interlock was more or less a component on the brake lamp circuit. With any circuit protection, fuses should pop well before any wires cook. If chaffing, rubbing to where the wire over time takes some amps/heat,, before the amperage overload, possible but... The concern would be 'why' the components toasted, and if any damage was done to the SJB. More so of a concern if at some point a higher amp fuse was installed because of the shift lock issue.
Did you purchase the Escape new, tow with it? The other repairs,, what did they involve, or correct?
Could be one of the other partner components, and possible to unplug them to see if the fuse holds, but if the tow harness burned, I'd suspect it took something with it, or created another harness connector issue somewhere else...
Last edited by Hayapower; 02-11-2017 at 08:28 PM.
#12
'Expand' on the burn, crisp, trailer part.....
The factory trailer connector or harness shorted, burned ?
The problem there if so,, is the trailer connector lamp circuits (loads) go into the SJB (smart junction box) and the functions for right/left turns and stop lamps for the trailer adapter are controlled by the SJB's internal logic module. The 15amp fuse is circuit protection, and the ABS, PCM, High Mount Stop, Cruise all share that 15amp,, as well as a Brake Pedal Position Switch as an 'input' into the SJB for the logic control. Not the same as the old tech where the Shift Interlock was more or less a component on the brake lamp circuit. With any circuit protection, fuses should pop well before any wires cook. If chaffing, rubbing to where the wire over time takes some amps/heat,, before the amperage overload, possible but... The concern would be 'why' the components toasted, and if any damage was done to the SJB. More so of a concern if at some point a higher amp fuse was installed because of the shift lock issue.
Did you purchase the Escape new, tow with it? The other repairs,, what did they involve, or correct?
Could be one of the other partner components, and possible to unplug them to see if the fuse holds, but if the tow harness burned, I'd suspect it took something with it, or created another harness connector issue somewhere else...
The factory trailer connector or harness shorted, burned ?
The problem there if so,, is the trailer connector lamp circuits (loads) go into the SJB (smart junction box) and the functions for right/left turns and stop lamps for the trailer adapter are controlled by the SJB's internal logic module. The 15amp fuse is circuit protection, and the ABS, PCM, High Mount Stop, Cruise all share that 15amp,, as well as a Brake Pedal Position Switch as an 'input' into the SJB for the logic control. Not the same as the old tech where the Shift Interlock was more or less a component on the brake lamp circuit. With any circuit protection, fuses should pop well before any wires cook. If chaffing, rubbing to where the wire over time takes some amps/heat,, before the amperage overload, possible but... The concern would be 'why' the components toasted, and if any damage was done to the SJB. More so of a concern if at some point a higher amp fuse was installed because of the shift lock issue.
Did you purchase the Escape new, tow with it? The other repairs,, what did they involve, or correct?
Could be one of the other partner components, and possible to unplug them to see if the fuse holds, but if the tow harness burned, I'd suspect it took something with it, or created another harness connector issue somewhere else...
There was no hitch on the car when we bought it, used, off a lease. I will have to ask what he did because I crawl under the back now and see nothing. I do not think this was a factory installed thing he removed. And he said he has done many years of car electrical work.
Where would one find the SJB in this car?
#14
I have a Haynes tear down repair manual here and I found the wiring Diagram for this affected area. I will show this Wiring Diagram to the guy who fixed it, I think it possible he hooked the wrong wires together or possibly the Electronic Flasher Module may be fried. I tried looking all over the Net for an new Electronic Flasher Module and I could not find one, so a few calls to the local parts guys are going to happen or if that fails, a visit to the local Wrecking Yard will be tried. The One Who Must be Obeyed is doing PSW work and drives from clients house to clients house. She has people stopping here and telling her she has no stop lights, so this needs to be fixed ASAP
The One Who Must be Obeyed says, after I replaced the fuse today, which I noticed was missing, I did not do search for it though. She says it will be blown after she arrives at her first client.
The more I think about it, that wiring repair that clown at the repair place did, crossed the wrong wires.
The One Who Must be Obeyed says, after I replaced the fuse today, which I noticed was missing, I did not do search for it though. She says it will be blown after she arrives at her first client.
The more I think about it, that wiring repair that clown at the repair place did, crossed the wrong wires.
Last edited by Dave Van De Cappelle; 02-12-2017 at 03:30 PM.
#16
The Escape is currently at an Auto Electric shop in town and he says it has serious issue. Wires are melted together under the dash. no more cruise, radio may be toast. to repair to drivable point 5000 to 6000 dollars repair are needed.
The guy from the Car Electric service called and he said he figures it started at that trailer wiring thing and every fuse I put in burnt it up further and further. Junk car wiring, I do wonder if there is recall for that from FORD (Fix Or Repair Daily, Found On Road Dead, For Old Retired Doctors) but this will be last Ford I ever own.
The guy from the Car Electric service called and he said he figures it started at that trailer wiring thing and every fuse I put in burnt it up further and further. Junk car wiring, I do wonder if there is recall for that from FORD (Fix Or Repair Daily, Found On Road Dead, For Old Retired Doctors) but this will be last Ford I ever own.
Last edited by Dave Van De Cappelle; 02-14-2017 at 07:36 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post