ok folks i need help


i have a 98 Expedition 5.4 about 215,000 miles, i desided to show her some love and replaced plugs (E3 plugs), coils (accel), injectors. after all that i could smell a rich condition them shortly after P1132 and P1152 code.


so looking up the codes and seeing the short list of things it could be i went deep in the ole pocket (alcohol was involved) and started replacing items


Map/Maf sensor
fuel pressure regulator
injectors (second time)
both upstream o2 sensors
PCV line kit from nipple to valve


no matter what i replaced codes still come back.
i disconected the battery over night and checked all connections on cops, injectors and anything else i could see.


had to drive it 400 miles (with bad mpg)
strange thing is on the highway no codes
after getting to my destination i checked for more vacuum leaks (none that i can find)
now drive about 10-15 miles no codes, come out of the store after hr of car sitting drive 5 minutes down the street and codes come back..now i have a new code P0136..


before i start drinking again could some of you very wise folks help me thanks in advance..


ps i could have forgotten some other things i have done hit me with a question (that should remind me) and i'll let ya know if i did it..

 

ok i have more codes P0133 and P0153

 

I am aware of the parts you replaced,but where did you purchase them? It's sad that many folks spend a lot of $$$$ and wind up installing parts that are defective right out of the box. I have my suspicions regarding the MAF sensor. Could be wrong, but if the MAF sensor is defective it will affect both banks and that appears to be contributing to the problem. Suggesting that you replace anything is shooting in the dark and can get expensive as well as frustrating. The better thing to consider is to have someone with a good quality scan tool check the fuel trims, MAF function and Oxygen sensor systems. The days of replacing everything hoping to correct the problem can and does get very expensive especially when it does not correct the problem.

 

thank you for dropping a line, "most" of the parts are motorcraft including the MAF..(besided the coils & plugs),,,was sitting here tonight trying to go over everything in my head from the first part of work i had done. i do remember moving a lot of stuff out of my way to replace the rear injectors and plugs on the right side, i do remember a ground strap near the rear of the intake (right side) when finishing up i didnt bolt it in the original area instead placing it at the throttle and return spring bracket,,just wondering if its not making a good ground, tomorrow i'll move it back to its home...i remember q qoute from a moving long long time ago "right now i would **** on a spark plug if it would do any good" lol...thoughts? thanks again

 

I'd be looking for a vacuum leak first..

Both 1132/52 are set for a rich condition or actually when the control is trying to correct for a lean condition by dumping more fuel forcing the upstream O2's to not range or 'switch' back and forth voltage like they should.

The PO136 is downstream O2 (Bank 1, sensor 2) or what some call monitors. The downstream or after cat monitors are looking for 'absence' of oxygen or catylitic converter efficiency.. Upstream range voltage high/low for a corrected fuel trim.

 

hello. i have searched for leaks with water, propane, cab and brake cleaner, and have upgraded all the plastic lines with rubber, replaced all other lines with OE parts and others with same dia and length....where i live we don't have emmions testing i could pull the catylitic....dang thing runs great just mpg are around 10.5 from 15.5,, and black tail pipes and that nasty dach light comes on

 

ok Hanky i'm here and i'll will answer your questions i have them sent to my phone,,,like i said before the MAF is a Motorcraft, (please ask me question in detail),,i'm free the next coupld weeks,,Ocean City MD bike Fest this week so i'm taking everything apert and starting from scratch ( no new parts for now just looking for shorts or clues to the problem..but the 1st of Oct i'm returning home 400 miles driving what seams to be a gas eating machine..looking for help...now in the there post you said the o2 is a fused heating circut but didn't say where it was located,,could you expand? ty

 

If you type in autozone wiring diagrams , they will provide the diagram for your vehicle, but they require the vin#.
The other thing you can do is to use a test lite and check each fuse both in the power dist panel under the hood and the panel in the vehicle. Sometimes that is quicker because you only need to touch both sides of the fuse and if one side lites and the other side does not the fuse is open.
So many things have been done that the better way to determine the problem is with a scan tool that will provide data that can be examined to pick out what is not normal. Jumping around hoping to find the cause can eat up time, money and good parts.

 

ty Hanky i'll give the test light a try..the reason i started tossing parts at it is because i live in the mountains of WV and sometimes youwould stand a better chance of reading the chicken bones when they land on the table then finding someone with a proper scan tool,, if ya know what imean?...when i preformed the original “tune up” and it started spitting outcodes I looked up a code sight of a list of items it could be and started goingby process of elimination. and needless to say the only thing that got eliminated was my money…lol,,but I can say if I “EVER” figure out whats wrong with this f&@*^%! Thing she will maybe go another 200,000 miles cause inside and out she’s just about mint..

 

Pretty sure I know just what you mean.
Let's step back and take a look from a different angle.
If everything was working alright until you started changing parts,, could some of the replacement parts be defective , you bet !
If that is the case how about reinstalling all the old parts and just maybe you will see something that escaped your eye before. A scan tool will tell you quite a bit as far as what is not normal and of course you go from there. The choice it appears is to have a shop check it or put the old parts back in. I realize it is tough to diagnose some vehicles without the proper equip and location doesn't help.
I could be out on a limb here assuming everything was alright before you started the TLC trick. What do you think?