2017 explorer front brakes
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 2
2017 explorer front brakes
At 70,000 miles should I need to replace the rotors or could they still be fine? Can the thickness of a rotor be measured with a caliper to check it's wear? Also wondering what brake pads and rotors people would recommend? Thanks
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,614
If no brake work has been done up to this time, better to do an actual inspection first.. The miles do give some idea of what you might expect.
The thickness limit is cast onto the rotors. If machining is done, a micrometer will be needed to determine if the thickness level has been reached. Any thickness below that recommendation requires the rotors to be replaced.
If you received good performance and service from the original parts, why not stay with original parts replacement.OEM.
Mileage alone is not a good measure to go by. If the components, for example, have seen a lot of salt from wintry road use, sooner replacement might be indicated..
There is a lot more to doing brake work than just replacing pads and rotors. If considerable corrosion and use were involved , best to do the whole job.
Sending contaminated brake fluid back into the ABS system by just squeezing the caliper piston back into the caliper is NOT good practice..There are people out there doing just that and they are not aware of the hazards of doing that. If you are not equipped to do the complete job properly ,best to have a good shop do it.
The thickness limit is cast onto the rotors. If machining is done, a micrometer will be needed to determine if the thickness level has been reached. Any thickness below that recommendation requires the rotors to be replaced.
If you received good performance and service from the original parts, why not stay with original parts replacement.OEM.
Mileage alone is not a good measure to go by. If the components, for example, have seen a lot of salt from wintry road use, sooner replacement might be indicated..
There is a lot more to doing brake work than just replacing pads and rotors. If considerable corrosion and use were involved , best to do the whole job.
Sending contaminated brake fluid back into the ABS system by just squeezing the caliper piston back into the caliper is NOT good practice..There are people out there doing just that and they are not aware of the hazards of doing that. If you are not equipped to do the complete job properly ,best to have a good shop do it.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 6
From: MA
If no brake work has been done up to this time, better to do an actual inspection first.. The miles do give some idea of what you might expect.
The thickness limit is cast onto the rotors. If machining is done, a micrometer will be needed to determine if the thickness level has been reached. Any thickness below that recommendation requires the rotors to be replaced.
If you received good performance and service from the original parts, why not stay with original parts replacement.OEM.
Mileage alone is not a good measure to go by. If the components, for example, have seen a lot of salt from wintry road use, sooner replacement might be indicated..
There is a lot more to doing brake work than just replacing pads and rotors. If considerable corrosion and use were involved , best to do the whole job.
Sending contaminated brake fluid back into the ABS system by just squeezing the caliper piston back into the caliper is NOT good practice..There are people out there doing just that and they are not aware of the hazards of doing that. If you are not equipped to do the complete job properly ,best to have a good shop do it.
The thickness limit is cast onto the rotors. If machining is done, a micrometer will be needed to determine if the thickness level has been reached. Any thickness below that recommendation requires the rotors to be replaced.
If you received good performance and service from the original parts, why not stay with original parts replacement.OEM.
Mileage alone is not a good measure to go by. If the components, for example, have seen a lot of salt from wintry road use, sooner replacement might be indicated..
There is a lot more to doing brake work than just replacing pads and rotors. If considerable corrosion and use were involved , best to do the whole job.
Sending contaminated brake fluid back into the ABS system by just squeezing the caliper piston back into the caliper is NOT good practice..There are people out there doing just that and they are not aware of the hazards of doing that. If you are not equipped to do the complete job properly ,best to have a good shop do it.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,614
Don't ask, murphy is alive and well. ( Murphy's law)
If you plan to replace calipers, depending on condition of the rubber parts, that will open a whole new set of bleeding problems.
If not replacing calipers, make sure the surfaces the stainless slides set on are smooth, clean and free of rust .If those surfaces are not clean, the slides will be pushed up against the pad backing and prevent them from free movement which brings on other problems.
As you can see , a complete job entails a lot of special attention that if ignored will come back to haunt you. It is more than just replacing parts.
If you plan to replace calipers, depending on condition of the rubber parts, that will open a whole new set of bleeding problems.
If not replacing calipers, make sure the surfaces the stainless slides set on are smooth, clean and free of rust .If those surfaces are not clean, the slides will be pushed up against the pad backing and prevent them from free movement which brings on other problems.
As you can see , a complete job entails a lot of special attention that if ignored will come back to haunt you. It is more than just replacing parts.
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