I looked at the new cylinder for the wheel for the rear and it says it is an M10 X 1mm but it does not say if it is a bubble or an inverted flare

Also, I can not figure out what size the other end is that hooks into the block in the center of the rear axel.

I think the line is 1/4 "

Can anyone supply me with the correct specs for these two lines ?

They are about 2 feet long each.

I thought it was 3/8 X 24 like the front lines, but I was wrong and now I am stuck with no brakes.

Thanks

Bill

 

I believe the diameter of the line is 3/16. Not bubble flair. Did you measure the line you removed?

 

I have the lines I removed. The specs on the wheel cylinder say the fitting on there is a M10 X 1.0 mm

I don't know what the specs are on the junction block on the axle where the other end connects

3/16 sounds right. When you say not bubble, it is just a standard flare, 1 time compressed, not compressed and flattened out with the 2nd tool ?

 

f you can manage to do this; take your old lines to an auto supply store and they will match the size and fittings to exactly what you removed. They would have any assortment of std or metric fittings that you might need. The lines as you know must be steel. Metric fittings are usually blue or purple. The flares all must be double flared.
You can purchase straight steel lines with the fittings on them . All you need to do is use a tubing bender to form them . Sometimes if the line is too long you can put a loop or slight hump in the line if you don't have a tubing cutter and flaring tool This will get you back on the road and if necessary you can find lines that are the exact length.
Try your local auto supply store even by phone and they might be able to offer recommendations to help you with the parts you need and some will deliver the parts to you.

 

I replaced the front cross over line. That was 5 feet long and I bent it to shape and it has 3/8-24 fittings on both sides.

This is M10 X 1.0mm for the wheel cyl side and I think the block in the center of the axle is also an M10 X 1.0mm , but I am not sure
I want to sell the vehicle, but without brakes I am going to have a hard time.

 

You don't say what model , but you probably know that you will need to bleed all the air out of the rears when you finish connecting the lines.Be careful trying to open the bleeder on the other rear wheel because if it has been on there a long time it may be frozen. I believe the bleeder screw has a 5/16 in head.
When you go to manually bleed the air out by depressing the brake pedal, TRY TO ONLY DEPRESS THE PEDAL PART WAY DOWN AND ALLOW IT TO COME BACK UP. THE REASON FOR THIS IS; all the while the rubber cups in the master cyl have pushed sediment to a certain point and when you now go to bleed that air out those cups will ride over that gritty sediment and the edges of the cups get scored and will not make an effective seal. The result is a sinking brake pedal due to internal leakage. Some may have other explanations on this , but after opening up a master after this happened I was able to see what caused the scoring and learned not to do that anymore. Of course a pressure bleeder prevents this.

 

The bleeders are frozen. I tried using a bolt out socket, and it won't budge. I will have to drill them out, but I need to get the right lines with the right fittings first and get it connected back together before I do anything else.

I am shocked that they don't list these details somewhere

The only way I knew that the wheel cyl is a M10 X 1.0mm is because I looked at the part on the autopart store website and it had that spec listed, but the hose with the connection block, that does not say what size or type of fitting it uses.

 

It is rare that they would use a metric fitting on one end and a std on the other. Chances are pretty good the fitting on the differential housing is metric also..

Regarding the wheel cyl on the other side ,
Fate works in mysterious ways and if you just plan on replacing the other rear brake line AND the wheel cyl, you will get the job done in a fraction of the time it will take to drill out anything. I enjoy doing machine shop work and this attempt to drill out a badly rusted wheel cyl could get you in deeper than you might want to go.
As far as fate goes, after you do the repairs and are more than satisfied with your work, you just may decide to hang on to the vehicle a while longer
If you did decide to sell it you could tell the new owner what was replaced ,CORRECTLY, and that is a selling feature.

 

I looked at the specs for the flexible line with the metal block and it lists the fittings as 3/8-24

The wheel cylinder is a M10 X 1.0mm pitch

I Know that is strange but the master cylinder is the same, 2 different metric sizes and standard size at the other ends.

For a 91 it is really strange that there is metric

It says the fittings are all inverted double flares not bubble flares

I am now trying to find a 2 foot line with these fittings. There is an 8inch line at AutoZone with these fittings but I need 24 inch or I have to get an adapter for M10 X 1.0mm to 3/8-24 and then get a 2 foot 3/8-24 on both ends. They make lots of sizes of those.

I wish I was not as sick, I have CHF, so any physical work is very hard for me.

But the cost for a garage to replace the lines 6 years ago was 800 and I will junk it before spending twice what I can sell it for.

I thought because it is a 1 of a kind hearse that is historical vehicle and registered with the historical society that I would find a classic car collector that would restore it back to New condition and take it to classic car shows

I don't think I will find a person who loves this vehicle like I do.

 

Under the present circumstances, if you can afford it,,,the last thing you need is excessive effort and aggravation. Only you know how much you can safely handle and that is why I suggested to just replace the other wheel cyl instead of working your butt off.
You will have the least work if you remove the other wheel cyl , install new lines then install the wheel cyls, bleed them and you are done.with the job.
You never know unless you advertise just what you have and can provide some good maintenance records and you should get your $$$ back. Just as you have an appreciation for that certain vehicle, there are others that share that appreciation, you just need to let them know you have something they might want.