Let give the back ground of the situation I have. The truck set over winter and I neglected to start or go drive the truck. Gets warm out decide to start it drive it around and no start.... Charged the battery checked fluids and BEHOLD!!! Damn pack rat chewed up the wiring going to 2 injectors under the upper manifold. So I take the upper manifold off and repair the chewed up wiring. Being a electrician I solder my wires and heat shrink but before I heat shrinked I checked for continuity between my solder and the injector connector. I also wired them back EXACTLY the way they was to make sure. (Knowing now the injector is a solenoid it didn't really matter). So I put it all together thinking she's gonna start right off the bat being optimistic and I crank her over and nothing. So I went to trouble shooting.. Now.. I have checked the ignition spark good. I checked the gas pressure sitting pretty at 40 psi on the rail. I have 12 vdc to the injectors and I noticed I didn't have injector pulse. Thinkin it was a bad ECM I hopped and searched a forum that the TPS will send a signal to the ECM showing full throttle which will knock out the pulse signal. So I went and replaced the TPS and now I have the injector pulse. To conclude I have ignition spark, correct fuel pressure, 12 volts dc and pulse signal at my injectors, but it still just crank over and no start...…After throwing this out there. What else is keeping my truck from running? I cant get it to run to see what codes it would throw. Hopefully someone has the answer..

 

It does not have to be running to obtain any codes.

As an electrician, maybe you forgot about the LEFT HAND RULE.
What if you removed one or two spark plugs and see what they look like?

You could have good pressure , but no injection. If the plugs are dry that could confirm a fuel delivery problem.
If wet, a possible problem with spark not getting to the plugs.
We should be able to maybe offer some things for you to look over.
Can you get back to us with what you find with the plugs , thanks.

 

The ECU will ground one lead on each injector to energize them at the proper time with a constant 12v power source on the other lead.You can scan for codes with the ignition on/ engine not running..

I am assuming you also had the air intake hose off to make sure those rodents didn't build a large nest choking off the air intake.

If you are sure of good spark at the correct time and fuel being supplied out of the injectors, that leaves compression. Perhaps it's time to check that on all cylinders.

If the timing chain jumped far enough to really drop the compression a great deal, it will appear that the engine will be cranking faster than normal due to the loss of compression.

 

The plug was saturated when I pulled it to check spark. Then when I turn the truck over to check for sparking I have good spark. You can smell the gas as well.

 

OK , can you try the following,

First see if you lite a match to the saturated plug will the wetness burn ?
If it does, the engine is flooded and if you hold the throttle to the floor when attempting to start it, it will be in clear flood mode and not inject any fuel.

If, however the fuel on the plug will not ignite and burn, it is contaminated with water and now the fuel system has to be purged and drained to get rid of that water.
That means the filter is full of contaminated fuel and will need to be replaced too.

I have removed the filter, emptied it out opposite of the direction the fuel goes in and spread it on the sidewalk and see if that stuff will burn. If it doesn't , that will confirm what we suspect , water !!

 

Try pulling the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and then cycle the key a few times. If gas comes out, the regulator is bad and dumping large amounts of gas into the intake system.

 

I apologize for taking too long on responding. It has a new fuel pressure regulator I installed. I have 40 psi on the rail before starting. When started its at 35 psi. Im getting pulse and 12vdc at the injectors. I have spark at the plugs, I checked for bad gas and no water in the tanks. I get 2 codes both for the transmission. It will start run super rough at idle, it clears up when revving the engine you smell how lean the motor is running. As the motor gets up to operating temperature it starts to struggle to stay running wants to start breathing "idle fluctuation" then it dies, becomes very hard to start. When the motor cools down it will start up and the same process happens again..

 

Might be a good idea to verify the ECT, engine coolant temp sensor is not malfunctioning.

 

Ill see if the ecm if sending some signal to said sensor. I installed a new air intake coolant sensor and the coolant temp sensor around a year and a half ago thinking that would fix it. This has been goin on since I bought the truck. It has progressively gotten worse since I bought it.

 

Suggest you consider a compression test. At least you would know where you stand with engine condition.