1988 Ford F150 Long Bed - 89000 miles - 302 eng, AC, PB, PS, Auto Trans.

Any day in the week, I can jump in my truck, turn the key, and I'm off and running. The battery is one of those yellow colored Wal*Mar "MAX65S" batteries which is 4 years, 2 months old (Purchased 08/09/06). Location is central west Florida, still good weather.

The problem will be a repeating occurrance on any day I drive about. I turn the key, engine starts normally, I drive off. I may drive 10 miles, stop, shut the engine down, shop or whatever, get back in the truck, turn key, engine starts normally, drive somewhere else. This shopping scenario usually repeats 4 or 5 times. It's usually the 5th time when I get back in the truck and turn the key that I face the dead battery scenario... turn the key and the sound is uurrrrr (very short!).

If I should be raising or lowering a window (elec) when I turn the key, the window stops instantly. All instrument gauges go to zero also. So far (1/2 doz times, exception being yesterday), I can wait a short time, turn the key, and the starter springs to life, engine starts etc. The charging system functions normally.

I've removed all cables pertaining to the starting system, battery, solenoid, starter, and cleaned thoroughly reattached, tightened securely, and coated with anti corrosive grease. The only cable terminal I couldn't reach was the engine ground side of the battery negative cable, however I did have a voltage meter and later a ohm meter connected to the pos/neg cables today, then pushed, pulled, shook them anticipating a cable flaw, but to no avail... the reading stayed steady.

Yesterday, at Long John Silvers, picked up a take out dinner, turned key = dead battery scenario. Wait awhile, turn key = uuurrrr, repeat wait etc many times. Good Samaritan hooks up jumper cables. Cables were attached to the battery cable terminals of my truck, not directly to the battery posts or any other ground. I reach in my truck, turn key, engine starts instantly. I drove home with plans to fix truck the following day.

This to me spells out faulty battery, BUT.......... Today (the following day), anticipating a battery with a bad cell, I start checking. All cells check out high and even in the green zone (hydrometer). The battery voltage reads 12 volts+. I turn on the headlights and start checking for faulty wires etc so as not to overlook the obvious. The headlight stay bright and steady for a good 20 minutes. I turn the key, the engine starts instantly, I shut the engine down and repeat the start procedure many (MANY) times trying to wear the battery down but to no avail. I start the engine, let it idle, the lights are still on, I turn on the radio, the AC set to high..... I cannot get the starting system to malfunction, BUT I know it will the next time I go out for any reason.

My thoughts are now that something is becoming affected due to engine heat. Does that sound far fetched? I've been looking at the starter solenoid but the lead voltage wires that supply voltage to other components are all attached to the same side of the solenoid that the positive battery cable attaches to... and to my line of thought, this would only result in having the dash gauges drop to zero if the battery was dead.

This is really driving me crazy.... what could I possibly be overlooking? (Joe)

 

Joe, the first thing we need to understand is; you cannot check connections like battery cables with an ohmeter. The connections have to be checked energized or under load. Do a voltage drop test while loading(trying to start the truck). That will give you a more accurate picture of the condition of the cables and connections. I would be very suspicious of the ground connection for the starter solenoid except that shouldn't affect your other electrical problems. Obviously, you have a poor connection that is showing up after heating up a while. I would suggest you confirm all ground connections from the battery cable connection to the engine and then to the sheet metal of the vehicle. There are only so many to check and I have every confidence in your ability to locate it, so get busy and happy hunting!

 

Hanky.... The ohm meter thing, I was just using the ohm section to check continuity for frays, looseness, that sort of thing. I did use a voltmeter to check the voltage readings at various points when engaging the starter (strong loading). Although the scenario was a dead battery act, the voltage at the battery posts, bolt on battery terminals. solenoid connections, remained at a full strong 12 volts. This held true even when having the ground lead of the volt meter jammed against any portion of the engine or body work metal.

I've replaced the electric starter assembly twice since purchasing the truck new in 1988 and this has got me wondering if I'm looking at another starter problem. The problem raised its ugly head again today. I made it home and while in the driveway shut the engine down, waited a while and hooked up a volt meter to the battery terminals again, then turned the key...... uuurrrr.... dead (quite a load), but the voltage at the battery read a constant 12+ volts and didn't drop a microvolt.

Pretty cold here right now so I don't feel like crawing under that thing, BUT since the starter really doesn't cost a arm and a leg, I intend to install another one if for no other reason to eliminate that one item. While I'm under there, I'll do what I need to do to get at the other ground end of that negative cable. I'll let you know what happens. (Joe)

 

From what you describe, with the meter connected to the battery, and showing no voltage drop, there is a poor connection somewhere after the battery. Have you tried to leave the headlights on and then try to start the truck, what do the headlights do?
If they don't go dim, its in the starting system wiring.
If they go dim, it's in the supply system wiring, like a battery cable or connection coming from the battery.
Carefully check the ground connection to the starter solenoid . I believe it uses the truck's sheet metal for a ground. That's the solenoid mounted on the inner fender well.
I don't usually recommend this, but you could jump the solenoid wire from the ignition wire at the solenoid to the battery cable positive supply at the solenoid and see if the starter tries to start the truck. If it does, the problem is in the starter system wiring from the ign switch or the ground for the solenoid or the solenoid itself.
Let me know what you find.

 

Pertaining to the 1988 F150 problem. I checked, removed, cleaned, every possible connection that I could think of in the electric starter circuit. The problem remained the same. I was thinking strongly about rerouting and/or replacing the battery ground cable but the other end of the cable is in such a location that it's impossible for me to get at it. I decided that I'd let a regular shop take care of that for me but before doing that.........

Since I've needed to replace the electric starter twice before (one while still under the one year warranty), I thought I'd install another one due to the fact that the headlights stay full bright even when the electric starter resembles a dead or extremely low battery charge.

The new (Advance Auto Rebuilt) starter has been on the vehicle now since sometime in January and the problem seems to have vanished...... so far. Why or how an electric starter can act like a battery gone dead, then a few hours later suddenly come to life like again is beyond my understanding...... and I have a mechanical background, my main means of making a living for many years up to retirement around 1991. Makes one feel like a parts replacer (sigh).

And now, my wife's 1989 Crown Victoria is showing the exact same symptoms.... here we go again. If this new problem turns out to also be confusing, I'll enter it in the Crown Victoria section. (Joe)

 

did you ever find out what the problem was with the crown Vic electrical? I am having a major confusing time trying to trouble shoot issues with 95 ford crown Vic.

 

I have found that when I slit open the insulation at the end of the battery cables there was much corrosion and that is enough to give the problems you are having. The cables aren't that expensive , it may be time to replace them.

 

Battery acid fumes find their way into the cables, under the insulation where it doesn't show, eat away the copper wires. I have found some with almost no metal left, just yellowish powder; would not even light headlights. imp

 

Sorry to be so late with a answer to the Crown Victoria battery/starter problem. Many personal problems... Had to put my dog to sleep, Neighbor's dog killed my cat, My wife passed away. The past 14 months have been somewhat unkind.

Pertaining to the Crown Victoria... That problem also turned out to be a faulty electric starter. The battery and all wiring has been checked and was found to be okay. I did replace the starter solenoid only because it was recommended to do so.

Apparently whoever made the starters for Ford in that era had something lacking in their quality control department.... my "new" 1988 Ford F150 required a new starter after only a few months of its purchase date.

 

Joe,
So sorry to hear of your losses. Our thoughts ,best wishes and prayers are with you this day. When you get some time and come around to it , maybe we can be of some help with your automotive problems. Until then, take care and some comfort in knowing we will be here to help.