With the truck off and key out ignition that fuse is too hot to touch. Is it supposed to be that hot when everything is off? I hv a slow battery drain. Bought a new fuse and it immediately gets super hot too. The door locks were working just fine and so were the windows. Until i pulled the original hot fuse out, now with or without a fuse in it, key on or off, my door locks are not working. could this be an indication that I need a new door lock switch or automatic window switch I don’t know why all of a sudden now the door locks don’t work they were working fine but because that fuse was super hot I thought that was the issue, and that that was draining my battery slowly but like I said I put a new fuse in it and it immediately gets super hot. Any need suggestions? thanks all u mechanic Gods that always save me!

Its the power lock and power lumbar fuse that’s super hot. With everything off or on. Windows work and are not attached to that fuse.
UPDATE so I pulled out driver side windo/lock switch. Since the lock buttons wouldn’t work I looked at those wires wiggle them a little bit push them in a little bit I didn’t really see anything wrong it looked very good. So I’ve put the switch back in put the fuse back in and this time the fuse did NOT get hot and the power lock buttons work again. ???
now charging battery to see if it no longer drains. The whole time I was messing with the power lock in window switch, the battery was steadily draining as I was writing it down. I doubt that problem is fixed but I will let y’all know in a bit

Battery still has a slow drain. Will update again so maybe it helps someone else

 

One way to approach the problem,
Place an amp meter in place of the fuse and see just how much current is being pulled from the circuit. It is supposed to be well under the correct fuse rating.
Evidentially, there is an excessive amount of current being pulled,which is enough to heat the fuse and not sufficient to cause the fuse to open.
This should be verified as there could be a poor connection at the place power comes into the fuse.
Once we can see how much current is going through the circuit , we can start looking for where the excess is originating.. This is where a diagram of everything on the circuit would be helpful and the path and components can be individually checked.. Moving things and the problem disappears does not help because we don't know which movement step reduced the problem, but watching the meter at the time we move things will immediately let you know where the problem is located..
Not difficult to do ,just need the meter and a little guidance.

 

Thanks. I will try that tomorrow . I hv a good meter. I’ll try to find diagrams via google. Appreciate u answering! 🙏🏼

 

We can supply you with the schematics you may need..

 

Good morning ☀️.
I’m fixing to look for the battery drain problem. To restate, the hot fuse is no longer a problem. The problem now is strictly a slow battery drain which, overnight, completely drains the battery. The battery won’t even do the ticking sound. I’m gonna try unhooking the negative battery cable, and put my meter in between the negative ground terminal and the negative ground cable. Using the 10A setting on my meter and making sure I move the red meter line to the 10A socket on the meter. Then I’m gonna pull each fuse from both fuse boxes and see which one affect the amps. (Is this correct?)
I’m trying to write what I’m gonna do in simple steps so maybe somebody in the future can use this thread.

Moderator: should I start a new thread due to the title here only mentions a hot fuse

 

I hooked up my black meter cable to the ground terminal and I hooked up my red meter cable to the ground wire. I made sure the meter was set on the correct position and that the red line was moved to a 10 or 10 a whatever. I’m getting absolutely no reading I’ve done it several times but the reading stays at zero so then I read online maybe the fuse was busted in my meter. So I’ve got my meter taken apart I see two fuses but they’re completely white one has 10A on it and one has 600VAC on it. What do they look like when they are blown?

 

Part of the ground wire is still attached to the body of the truck or chassis I even took it off and cleaned that. Any suggestions why my meter is not showing any amps. I guess I’ll try it again and turn my headlights on to see if the meter goes away from zero

 

So with black line hooked to ground terminal and red line hooked to ground wire, and part of ground wire still attached to truck chassis; still got zero reading. I turned the headlights on. They would not come on. Reading still at 000. I unhooked everything and put ground wire back on ground terminal. Turned headlights on and they worked. Now charging battery again and getting some lunch. I’m doing something stupid bc the meter should read.

 

Is the connection maybe not good enough. Like I’m just ‘touching’ the ground terminal and ground wire w the thin prongs of the black and red lines. Should I attach it with like alligator clips?

 

Your fine posting here...

Fully charge the batt before testing..
Test the draw in mA first.
Set the meter/leads for mA. Anything over 50 mA is excessive,, normally.
A drain over night is substantial. Hot fuse/s is not normal.
After it sits on a cold soak, battery fully charged, place your hand on the alternator. Is the case warm?
If there's no 'add on' wiring or devices, then removing the fuses individually may shed some light and a direction...

Post the specific fuse number/location, and I'll look at its power distribution-routing...