Thanks for ur suggestions. I will do it. And update

 

Thanks for ur suggestions. I will do it. And update.

ok so battery is fully charged 12.76. Alternator cold to touch. Meter reading zero. I tried 10A w red line in proper meter socket. I tried mA moving red line to mA socket. Touch black line to ground terminal and red line to ground wire..... zeroes. I think I’m just gonna rip the f ing radio out. I know that is the cause many times 😡🤔

 

Been checking fuses. IN DIRECT FLORIDA SUN! I’m about to lose my mind. I had to stop but I got many of them done here comes a picture there’s definitely issues I hope someone can help steer me in the right direction.

 

‘Super Moderator’ I like that Hayapower 😊

I just noticed I did #11 twice! (see pic above) Both times is over the 15 amp fuse.

i did do the mA first, earlier as u said to do, then the 10A . Both still showed zero on meter

 

A meter is great for doing detailed testing,,,,,,,,but if the fuse in your meter is open and you are not aware ,it can drive you up the wall.

The only way to make sure those 2 white fuses are good is to test them for continuity. You can do this with a simple test light, but not with a meter that cannot function with a possibly bad fuse.
If you have any good 12 volt bulb,place one end of the fuse you want to check on the positive post of the battery, place the bulb bottom contact against the other end of the fuse , then provide a ground to the other part of the bulb. If the fuse is open ,the bulb will not illuminate. If it lites it is good. But you need to know your meter can work correctly or you could be doing what we call chasing your tail.
You don't need 2 people telling you what to do , and since Hayapower is helping you I shall be just reading the progress, OK ?

 

Strength in numbers hanky!

If your meter isn't working, for a couple bucks you can pick up a cheap HF meter. Or borrow one if possible. But like hanky noted, just a quick continuity test would prove them out..

Looking at your fuse/test data, we're seeing fuse numbered position, and a measured power distribution at the fuse?

Reading the meter amp draw at the battery, and removing one at a time should help isolate the possible power draw/s..

If you isolate it to a fuse, we can schematic check and see all that pull power from that fuse...

 

I’d really rather have two men paying attention me! 😁 just kidding guys! But really not... haha
ok so, good morning gentlemen! Thanks for the advice given. I’m working on it now.

sooo, I think that procedure I did yesterday and writing it down on the note pad, I did completely wrong! I pulled each fuse out; meter on Voltage DC, and measured each ‘socket’ of the interior fuse box itself, by putting the red and black meter probe pins in the socket I pulled the fuse out of. On the note pad, first number is the fuse location in the fuse box, second number is the amperage of the fuse I pulled. Third number is the the reading for the socket itself; based on putting the two pins into the socket touching the metal receptors the fuse goes in.

going to neighbors to get another meter or test light.

Its probably the radio.... what if I just pull it out and disconnect it to see if that’s it. But I really want to learn and figure out how u go about finding the drain the right way. Pls tell me the correct terminology to use. Have a great morning what’s left of it

 

By removing the fuse, you remove the load side or draw as well on the circuit . You should see voltage distribution to one leg of the fuse depending on the key position, and/or circuit activation (items switched ON) . But the load on the other side of the fuse socket won't really be a readable value as far as amps..

The collective 'resistance' on the load side of a fuse,, meaning for all the electrical features or hardware (as a resistance=load) on each fuse would be pretty much an unknown., especially if any add on equipment or harness splices etc.

The best way to check for a parasitic draw is measuring the mA draw and its amperage "drop" (if any) at the battery/cable as each fuse is removed.

That vintage truck doesn't have many 'keep alive' power distribution needs.
Radio is one, but easy enough to pull the fuses and check for any improvement .

Radio would have a power distribution for its memory, and one for operating power in Key ON/ACC. I wouldn't suspect the radio to be a source for a massive drain, but if the fuse that seemed over temp was related to the radio or it's a shared fuse/ protection, removing the fuses should point to a direction.

 

So the fuse in my meter is blown. So I will get new fuses tomorrow. Here’s a video

 

That’s what I was trying to do and write results down. The setting on meter is supposed to be set on 10A or mA?? I had my meter set on Volts. And red meter line plugged into 10A??
Am I then supposed to touch each side of the fuse socket w the two meter pins thereby connecting the circuit again? And thus there is a load or draw on the system again also called resistance. Yes? Can’t wait to replace fuses in my meter tomorrow! Good night. 🙏🏼