94 f150 aod tranny leak need help. I bought the truck with a slow drip
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94 f150 aod tranny leak need help. I bought the truck with a slow drip
I bought my 94 with a slow drip out of the tranny pan. So I brought it home replaced the gasket. Used gasket sealer on gasket between pan and gasket. Still leaked so I took it back off recleaned everything put a new gasket on with gasket sealer let sit for 24 hours. Torqued all the bolts down did everything as directed tightened in star manner. Still dripping from same place soooo I said screw it bought a new tranny pan new gasket locktight rtv tranny pan gasket sealer and maker put it on with gasket sealer between pan and gasket again. Tightened it all down torqued it down and all let dry for 24 hours rechecked torque and then added tranny fluid. Drip drip drip from the same spot 
sooo today I pulled it off called the local tranny shop they said I can put the gasket sealer on both sides of the tranny gasket. I cleaned whole thing inspected with magnifying glass no crack holes or problems on transmission. If it leaks what is the next step? Replacing the whole tranny or? And it is leaking from gasket on rear passenger side of the pan you can see it bead up and then drip from that area each time. Need some advice getting very frustrated.
sooo today I pulled it off called the local tranny shop they said I can put the gasket sealer on both sides of the tranny gasket. I cleaned whole thing inspected with magnifying glass no crack holes or problems on transmission. If it leaks what is the next step? Replacing the whole tranny or? And it is leaking from gasket on rear passenger side of the pan you can see it bead up and then drip from that area each time. Need some advice getting very frustrated. 
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Joined: Jul 2006
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Welcome to the site..
What material is the pan gasket?
If it’s rubber/steel gasket sealer is not used. The problem with sealers and fiber gasket materials is it can split the material at the bolt eyes during torque. As well as slightly warp or arch the pan between bolt hole. More so any type of cork composite gasket and silicone. Silicone tends to be slippery, and easy to force or split the gasket out at tightening points. Reading your post, are you applying the gasket and sealer, letting it set and then torque is applied?
Have any images of the leak point? Who’s gasket/type?
What material is the pan gasket?
If it’s rubber/steel gasket sealer is not used. The problem with sealers and fiber gasket materials is it can split the material at the bolt eyes during torque. As well as slightly warp or arch the pan between bolt hole. More so any type of cork composite gasket and silicone. Silicone tends to be slippery, and easy to force or split the gasket out at tightening points. Reading your post, are you applying the gasket and sealer, letting it set and then torque is applied?
Have any images of the leak point? Who’s gasket/type?
Last edited by Hayapower; May 1, 2018 at 10:01 AM.
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,560
Just in case, is there anything above the area of the leak like a mounting joint ?
Could someone in the past put the wrong size bolt back when assembling the pan where they may have split the case and it will only show when a bolt is placed in the hole?
What torque spec are you using to torque the pan bolts?
Forgot to mention , if a steel scraper was used to remove an old gasket the aluminum alloy case could have a nick in it .
Torque spes is 12-14 LBS
Could someone in the past put the wrong size bolt back when assembling the pan where they may have split the case and it will only show when a bolt is placed in the hole?
What torque spec are you using to torque the pan bolts?
Forgot to mention , if a steel scraper was used to remove an old gasket the aluminum alloy case could have a nick in it .
Torque spes is 12-14 LBS
Last edited by hanky; May 1, 2018 at 05:32 PM. Reason: addl infp
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