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96 f150 4.9 l issues need serious advice.

  #21  
Old 03-25-2014, 03:00 PM
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If the vehicle has an OBDll system it has to have some way to detect a misfire and report it. That is what I call the crank sensor and it is not really that, you are correct.
I believe it is called a misfire detection sensor.
It should have an ign module, and that could be part of the problem. I agree a compression check would help determine if there is a timing problem.
I get a little uneasy when someone says they checked the dist because I don't know what they really checked.
 
  #22  
Old 03-26-2014, 03:49 PM
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one can't really check out a dist. they either work or not and there is something else that happens when something like this goes wrong and it causes a very big headache for the one that's trying to figure it out. that happened to me and I ended up getting rid of the truck because I couldn't get it to run so when I had enough with it then I let ti go back to the finance co. there wasn't no reason why my truck did what it did and I ran out of money trying to fix it. but I don't think it's in the spark. I think that it's got something to do with the timing or it may have no compression therefore no power
 
  #23  
Old 03-26-2014, 04:22 PM
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I did a compression check and all cylinders where 160 except for number 4 which was 170. So after that I determined it was not cylinders. As far as the distributer goes I visually looked for signs of cracks or moister and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I will however look for the crank sensor you mentioned. But I also hope that it is not indeed jumped time. I am out of money but if I find the culprit behind this I will find a way to go. It. But in all technical note the truck makes a squeal noise constant idle. It's probably because I have the iaf and maf unplugged so that it will idle. If they are plugged in the truck will crank then die as if there was no gas. That's the only reason I would suspect mixure. And by the way thank you for sticking with me on this misfortune.
 
  #24  
Old 03-26-2014, 09:08 PM
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I feel so stupid that I didn't catch it the first time I read it but I caught it when I reread the first post. the reason why you're engine is so hard to start and won't run right is because your fuel pump is too weak and not getting enough fuel pressure to the injectors. That's another thing that the pcm can't control or have any codes to throw. it's not a problem of timing but a simple matter of fuel pressure. if you have two tanks for fuel switch them over and see if one has enough pressure to prime the engine and make run the right way. if not then you'll have to replace the pump in the tank
 
  #25  
Old 03-27-2014, 10:05 AM
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Pressure from the fuel rail is 20 psi. Ignition on without start.with start it stays the same
 
  #26  
Old 03-27-2014, 12:28 PM
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Grindman gave you some good advice . The fuel pump spec for your engine is in the range of 50-60 psi. Just make sure the connections to the pump are good and block the fuel return line from the pressure regulator back to the tank to make sure the pressure regulator isn't defective then if all that checks out replace the fuel pump.
 
  #27  
Old 03-27-2014, 01:09 PM
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I replaced the regulator with new one. It was the second part I changed. Then I checked the fuel pressure from the rail. 20 psi and it didn't matter if I cranked it or not it didn't change. I also changed the fuel filter. It must be the pump.
 
  #28  
Old 03-27-2014, 01:29 PM
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Just because a part is new does not mean it is good. These days with so many parts coming from all over the world there are so many defective parts right out of the box.
It' a small step to confirm the press reg is working correctly compared to installing a replacement fuel pump module only to find the problem is sill there. That was the reason for suggesting the check for the fuel pressure reg. That's how we gain our experience which is defined as; "experience is what you get when you get what you don't want".
 
  #29  
Old 03-30-2014, 02:48 PM
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that's so true Hanky
 
  #30  
Old 04-04-2014, 11:20 PM
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Had somewhat of a break through. I found a clogged pvc and replaced it with new one. Changed the busted oil pan gasket with new one and cleanned throttlebody the best I could. Started it up with all sensors plugged in and began to idle rough. Stalled a few times and then with gas pressed I got it to idle at 3000 rpm for 1 minute which let the computer throw some codes. They are in order as follows ... P0102, p0135, p0155, p0122, p0136, p1131, p1151, p0385, no sup. So now I got a long list of crap and no idea which will be the c culprit at the moment. I am happy that I have somewhere to start now.
 

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