Complete 97 5.4 Triton F150 HELP!!!
I have just purchased the truck listed in the title of this post, the vehicle starts and runs fine, no signs of an issue with ot, until you drive it for about 10 to 15 minutes, at which point the temperature gauge will shoot up to max and the truck begins to slow down almost to the point of shutting off if you continue to drive it. If you park it, and shut it off, the engine and coolant hoses are barely warm to the touch, but the gauge indicating that the temperature is at max will take hours to return to a cold level. This was originally, it gets more complex; during all this, the oil pressure gauge is also indicating the pressure to be just under the red/max zone as well. After checking out the cooling system, I observed that the larger radiator hose that goes across the top of the engine was suctioning tight, collapsing into itself from pressure. Opening the resivoir released that pressure, and since the coolant line had not increased in temperature during this I had guessed that maybe it was failing to reach the engine due to lack of flow, so I removed the end of the radiator hose at the top on the far side from the overflow tank (which had no coolant leak out at the point I had done this) and added coolant directly into that hose that lead down into the engine. I then reconnected it, started the truck and the temp was back to normal (after 90mins time had also passed while trying to find someone at home that had coolant as I was stranded on a major highway far from any store that might).... It was not even 5minutes before the temp gauge returned to its max position, and I was not able to safely pull over until a few minutes after, which I barely made it to that place since the truck was beginning to shut down on its own. So again I opened the hood to help cool down the engine, opened the over flow tank to release the coolant pressure, but still, neither the rad hoses nor the engine felt hot at all. At this point I demanded that the previous owner come assist me in some way, since he swore the truck was good when I bought it. Since the engine wasn't seeming to be hot, he suggested running it with the radiator cap off to help push out any air that may occur in the coolant system, which didn't work.... The next possible suggested solution was perhaps the engine oil was blocked or clogged somewhere in the system, from being parked for so long. So he came to meet us and assisted in an oil change on the truck. Which had no effect on the condition. He then offered to take us to the mechanic that knew the truck, inside and out ( who wasn't capable of locating the vehicles switch to deactivate the "door ajar alarm/indicator - annoying sound that I wish still had a fuse to remove it, to stop the singing so he had to shut the door. He hooked up a Snap-on OBDII code reader to the truck and it sent back the code P1299 which was said to be cylinder head temperature overheating. So he tried to clear the code, which didn't work, he then removed the Air intake off of the top of the engine and individually unplugged each of the 2 sensors that are there to see if they would make the temp return to normal on the gauge, which it did not. Neither the engine nor the rad hoses were hot at this time stilll. During this ridiculous attempt to diagnose the problem with the vehicle, the rad hose was still collapsing into itself, when asked why it was explained that the radiator cap was not the right one, then it was said that it's not working properly, apparently there should be vents to allow the fluid to flow, but since they were not present or malfunctioning, the vacuum pressure in the line was causing it to collapse, he then returned the cap robots original tight position and continued to assist his friend with the bogus diagnosis. After about an hour of speculation and failed attempts to cure the trucks ailments. The project was abruptly abandoned with no known answer for the issue. We thanked him for his attempt and parted ways making it, at best,5 minutes from the person's home before the temp gauge was through the roof again. This time when we parked it to cool off, remembering the comment about the cap needing to be able to vent, I tried puncturing some small holes into the cap to see if maybe that was the solution. But after attempting another 5 minutes drive down the road, the recurring problem appeared again causing us to pull over and pop the hood once again, but this Time! The engine wasn't very warm, BUT The radiator hoses were hot, burning hot. The vacuumed compressed appearance was still there as well but not quite as compressed, no visible signs or noticeable smells of coolant anywhere on or around the engine, nothing else was very hot under the hood. The truck burned through about 3/4 tank of gas on a, in total, 20min duration of driving over the almost 7hour journey back home. If anyone could possibly even begin to explain what is going on with this truck, I would love to hear it because I can't find a matching answer anywhere online... Thanks to anyone that can help.
How many miles on the truck?
The coolant hoses indicating lower temps than the gauge indicates may lend to a coolant circulation issue. If during a drive cycle or extended idling, is the radiator top hose is noticeable hotter than the lower hose? Being it’s a closed system, if coolant doesn’t flow it can collapse the upper hose as the pump will create a vacuum in a restricted system. I’d verify the thermostat is opening and coolant is flowing as a start. Or, you could remove the thermostat and see if the over temp /flow correct. Restricted radiator, pump issues can cause flow problems as well..
Does it loose coolant, needing top off, or level drop during the longer trips? Possible it’s base engine related, but I’d rule out low flow first.
The coolant hoses indicating lower temps than the gauge indicates may lend to a coolant circulation issue. If during a drive cycle or extended idling, is the radiator top hose is noticeable hotter than the lower hose? Being it’s a closed system, if coolant doesn’t flow it can collapse the upper hose as the pump will create a vacuum in a restricted system. I’d verify the thermostat is opening and coolant is flowing as a start. Or, you could remove the thermostat and see if the over temp /flow correct. Restricted radiator, pump issues can cause flow problems as well..
Does it loose coolant, needing top off, or level drop during the longer trips? Possible it’s base engine related, but I’d rule out low flow first.
Last edited by Hayapower; Oct 20, 2019 at 09:37 AM.
Replace the collapsing hose. That most likely is where the problem lies. Had the same problem once myself. a new hose cured the problem. I would also suggest another oil change once the problem is corrected.
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daveranger
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Dec 15, 2009 06:55 AM



