Ya those codes I listed in my previous post are the KOEO codes I think.but they dont help me much. Oh I'd love to get this thing to a shop But i dont have the funds for that, So it's do the shade tree mechanic thing and hope for the best.

 

Just for giggles, unplug each sensor one at a time and try to start the vehicle. (low tech hillbilly way of using a scan tool ) If a sensor has shorted, it can take all the reference voltage from the PCM and cause a no start condition. Good luck.

 

I'm assuming you had no CEL(check engine light) illumination before the truck died. If that is the case, The trouble data codes you have exhumed from your ECM are codes related to the part/parts that are causing the failure to start symptoms you have been plagued with. The codes are not actually causing the problem, They have been triggered by the part causing the problem. Now, I'm a betting man, and I would put my money on the fact that all of those sensors and wires going ca-put at the same time would be 1 and a million. Considering all the trouble data codes you have retrieved seem to be electrical/voltage related, I would be lead to believe that the voltage regulator is not doing it's job. The voltage regulator is called an internal voltage regulator. By 1995 external voltage regulators had been long done away with. Internal voltage regulators are built into the alternator. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that more than likely your voltage regulator regulated its last volt. Nine times out of ten when your alternator goes "bad" it is due to a bad internal voltage regulator, not the actually alternator. Rebuilding them is cheaper than replacing them. Removal and install is real easy and your local parts store will most likely to be able to test it for free. They will likely identify it as bad. On a very rare few occasions I have seen alternators test good and were actually bad. Like I said Ford is closely related to Mazda and anytime I have seen a voltage regulator on a Mazda go bad the vehicle would not start.

 

Way2old gave you a good suggestion, however, that vehicle will never be able to start without battery voltage going to one of the coil primary terminals.
There are too many inconsistent things here.
I will try to list them as I see them.
The codes you received , did you clear all the computer codes before you connected the code reader? If you don't have the correct sequence the only other way to clear the codes is by disconnecting the battery cable for a few minutes.
If you did clear the codes first, from those you received indicate a loss of vref voltage that is provided by the computer. The code relating to the coolant temp sensor being grounded could be causing your vref voltage to be non existent and that is why if you unplug the sensor plug from the coolant sensor as way2old suggested it may allow the other functions to work. There could be a short in that wiring system involving the coolant sensor. Still, if you ran a supply of battery voltage directly from the battery to the ignition feed of the coil and cranked the engine that other primary terminal of the coil should flicker indicating the ignition system is functioning as required. Until you can get that to happen the coil isn't doing anything to provide the needed spark. I am beginning to wonder if you replaced one bad part with another bad part thinking because it's new it's good. Something like this happens more often than you realize especially since a lot of crap being sold today is imported unreliable junk.
That is why you need to understand what is supposed to happen and when it doesn't be able to back track your steps and see where you lose a required step.

 

The Batt has been out of the truck for a couple of days due to cold weather, and in the garage on a batt maintainer. then I put the truck into diagnostic mode (Wire across) the eec test point connector and got the codes from the blinks on the Check Engine Light...Next check i plan on doing is take the altinator off and have it checked since the regulator is inside and make sure it is ok, then go from there.....needs to warm up a bit....I hate working on a Veh out in cold esp. in the snow.

 

You don't have to tell me twice about working out in the cold. It was +7F here where I am this morning and I don't feature working out there either. If you can spare the time while waiting for the weather and battery check some computer sites for Early OBD I system operation. The better your understanding of what happens and how it is supposed to work will answer a lot of questions that you are presently not sure about.
The basic ignition system on your vehicle can usually be tested with a test lite and if you know what should happen where and when a lot will become much clearer to you.
We all want to see you succeed and it doesn't matter whose suggestion helped locate the problem as long as it starts and you can go from there. So hang in there , your perseverance will pay off. Even experienced techs get stumped , but the smart ones aren't ashamed to ask for suggestions from fellow techs and many times get fooled by installing a "new bad" part. Been there!

 

does it have duel tanks if so swap and try. sometimes that switch will cause problems. mine does it every so often.

 

Ok guys I'm back. I got the Alt. tested all is good. Went to O'Rielys this time. This guy really tried to help me, He went out of his relm to try and help me figure something out. He talked about the Crank positioning sensor, but cant find it on his system at the store, all he could find was the plug, So he calls a friend and they both are going thru stuff and discover that it is part of the computer? So my next step is to call a mobile Mech type and see what he costs to come out and check things out... I'm at a loss here.

 

We have a 1995 F150 with a 302. Was at a stop light a couple of weeks ago & the engine started shaking. Changed the EGR valve. Some of the shake went away. Checked plugs & wires. All look fine. Tried changing an O2 sensor but one wouldn't come out. It takes a few minutes to get it started in cold weather. So looking at some starting issues along with engine shaking. Help!!!
Was just reading some posts & am wondering if this year of truck has a coil pack. If so where would it be located? Sorry, the mechanic in the family passed away in 08. We have no clue on some parts. Can't afford to take it to a shop. DIY'ing it here.

 

What you describe as engine shaking, to be more specific, when the engine is idling place your hand at the tail pipe, do you feel puffs or is it a smooth pressure coming out?
Just changing parts is very expensive and the only way it works SOMETIMES is the shotgun approach where you replace everything and not too many of us can afford to do this. So, with that said, we take one thing at a time and eliminate the easy simple things first, Usually!
Will wait for your reply.