Front drivers side brake very hot. put on hoist pumped brakes, seemed locked up so we replaced the caliper and the black hose. bled brakes.
Still the same problem >?
What next
Master Cylinder ?>
Proportioning valve ?
any input greatly appreciated

 

2011 F-150
thanks

 

Not to insult your intelligence but you did put the front brake pads on correctly? There is a outer and inner pad, if they are mixed up they cockeye the caliper and can feel like a sticking caliper. Would be a good thing to check before replacing anything else.
If the pads are in correctly I would start with the brake booster, Ive replaced a decent number of them for locking up the brakes, usually all brakes will be a little hard but one is drastically worse.

 

Yes, we did put the pads on correctly, thank you, i should have mentioned that.

 

Crack open the bleed screw for the LF caliper. If the brake still drags, it is a mechanical issue at the wheel (pads, caliper, slides,hardware, improper installation, etc.). If the brake relaxes, start looking upstream from the caliper heading up to proportioning valve, a kinked line, ABS module (including hydraulic hose for the caliper). Something upstream is holding hydraulic pressure to the caliper. Master cylinder or booster will not affect just one wheel.

 

We did replace the caliper and the hose per my first post, so I know its upstream, but not sure what
thanks for reply

 

raski, so if just 1 brake affected then like you said ABS module, ?
thanks much

 

I have actually had one car where the brake booster was only locking up one tire, the others had a slight drag but one was completed locked, we replaced the booster because we had already replaced everything else under warranty, still dont know how the booster failed in this way though, did not see anything different between the old and new one.
Also I am about 99% sure that Ford stopped using proportioning valves in the early 2000's

I would agree to inspect the hard brake lines for any damage, they are painted black, look for any chipped paint. If all lines are ok I would replace the booster and master cylinder before ABS module due to the cost of the module and how much of a pain in the *** unscrewing six brake lines little by little is.

 

Possible since it can feed each wheel individually. Don't overlook what you already replaced. Remember new doesn't always mean everything is good. If it is upstream, you should get a gush of fluid under pressure as you loosen up the bleeder screw indicating their is pressure in the line being applied to your caliper.

 

Booster is just a diaphram, they either leak or don't and is very easy to determine if it is leaking.I can possibly see a wheel locking up if the caliper is marginally working but the booster affects everything and wouldn't know the LF from the RF but weird things are possible since the LF is closest to all the upstream components in the system and might cause a premature lock as the brakes are applied but can't see it holding pressure on just one wheel..

I just included proportioning valve for any vehicle which didn't have four wheel ABS.