This is for any one who might be able to answer this question. I just just bought a 94 F150 and the fuel gauge doesn't work for either tank. the doors sag and I have to slam the left one to get it shut good that one I think I can adjust to get the alignment in the right position but the right side I have to lift up on the door then close it I know that the pin in upper hinge is wore out and letting the door sag that's why I can't get it shut properly. So I guess I have two questions for y'all the first one is how hard is it to change the pin in the hinges? And second one is How do you get the filler tube away from the rear tank without lifting the bed off the frame so that I can replace the pump in it. the truck runs when the front tank is on but dies as soon as I flip the tanks from front to rear. I can hear the relay click but can't hear the pump priming the lines. now on my 92 the filler tube had a hose inside the other and couldn't get it loose or move the outer one out of the way to remove the inner one

 

On the tanks, open the fuel door and remove the 3 fill neck flange screws. Then, under the truck between the frame and bed, remove the hose clamp that holds the fill neck to the support bracket. Next, remove the large fill neck to fill hose hose clamp. Pull the fill neck out along with the fill vent hose. Plug the large tank fill hose with a rag etc. to keep debris from entering the hose.

Hopefully their empty, or as close too..

Lift the truck as much as possible (may depend on jack/tank support reach) Support the tank and remove the bands. Lower the tank enough to remove the quick couplers and the electrical connector. As you lower the tank, feed the fill hose out from between the frame etc. Good time then to check the gauge function at the connector or the level sensor..

On the door hinges, support the door/s and cut the pin at its center with a die grinder/cutoff wheel etc. Drive the pins out and replace the bronze bushings. The new pins have a C clip.

If a hinge is only slightly loose and the door drops a bit out of alignment (and you'd rather not do the pins) you can use a floor jack and about a 2' 4x4 block of wood (to disperse the lift weight) and put it on the lower crimp edge of the door (from the latch end and extending towards the hinge end). Keep the jack more centered to the block, or better a little towards the latch end. With the door about half open,, jack the door up until you feel the stress. The door 'has' to be opened enough so not to shove the upper edge of the door into the fender edge..

Lower the jack and swing the 'almost' to the latch point. Look at the body line. If still too low, repeat until you get the 'feel' for the amount of lift needed to tweak the door. If too much, use your body weight and pull down on the door to drop the alignment.. Works well for slight pin wear,, and the adjustment/flex isn't enough to affect a later new pin repair should need be..

 

thank you that's quite helpful to me at last I finally get the info. that I needed to remove the rear tank without raising the bed off of the frame.

 

If you can't do the above moves right away, I have managed to buy some time by just adjusting the post the latch locks on. Some times a slight adjustment will buy some time until you can do a more complete job.

 

Drop'n the striker is always an option, but door and panel gaps and body lines are like a crooked picture on the wall,, just got's straighten it up

 

I ended up getting a half foot snow fall yesterday and couldn't do any thing to it not dropping the rear tank or trying to adjust doors. I have to wait for the whether to clear up and all this darn snow to melt off. I did crawl under the rear of the truck and discovered that the rear tank has a leak that may be coming from the seam or where the strap holds the tank in place

 

I'm still not able to work on my truck about the time I get the chance it snowed again. That's what I get for living in the show me state

 

just a little update, I fixed the doors on my 94 F-150 and at least the doors ain't so hard to close. now all I need is a little more cash and the weather to stay clear so that I can drop the rear tank and get the pump and see why my gauge doesn't work for either tank

 

I have some other questions about this truck and here goes. on my 92 that had twin tanks the fuel lines from each tank ran along the frame rail into weird looking valve body witch is the tank selector valve. now on this truck there ain't nothing that even resembles the tank selector valve. what I have is the fuel lines are spliced together with steel tees and it makes me wonder if they ford motor co did away with the fuel tank selector valve and put it all on the selector switch which would tell you or witch one of the pumps to turn on?

 

Good Morning Grindman !
All the check,switching return valves are now in the fuel pump module itself.
If you don't have the correct tool to remove the fuel line connectors with the "little" fingers on them it would be a good idea to get it before starting tank removal. Otherwise it could take a simple job and make it a real pain in the seat. I am pretty sure your ole 92 had the same system with fuel line removal. You just pushed the tool in to spread the fingers and pulled the connection off until the fingers past the rib that they worked against. If those tanks had any fuel in them , they were pretty heavy.
I believe those tanks had a capacity of around 35 gals. You probably have done all this before .