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  #21  
Old 03-01-2012, 09:06 AM
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Perhaps I should go to pull a part and retrieve every missing part and sensor to set it back up like it came.... Oh, and the Air pump hoses are off.
 
  #22  
Old 03-01-2012, 12:04 PM
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If you should decide to reinstall the missing parts you have your work cut out for you.
Did you get a chance to check if any vacuum lines coming from a vacuum source were either disconnected or off? Are the TAB and TAD solenoids still on the center of the engine. Do either of them have any vacuum lines going in and none going out?
Do you know if you are subject to vehicle emission inspection where you are moving to?
 
  #23  
Old 03-02-2012, 06:06 PM
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I went to pull a part and grabbed a few things but I discovered that the emissions are much different on the box van truck than they are on a standard vehicle. There is no crossover pipe that runs from the the exhaust manifolds. My manifolds don't even have a threaded place for those pipes, just smoothed over.

on the TAD/TAB,the rear sensor is missing, not sure if it is the TAB or TAD, but the one furthest back. I think I am going to get the FSM.... It covers commercial setup. I am at a complete loss. I did grab a bunch of vacuum lines from a junker in case one was bad.
 
  #24  
Old 03-03-2012, 02:24 AM
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I believe the piping went from the right side of the engine to the rear of the heads and contained a check valve there in the center of the pipe. That was how the addl air got to the exhaust system. I am not positive on this , but there may be a difference between a vehicle's Gross weight rating like under 8,500 lbs and over 8500 lbs. Different rules applied to the vehicle based on its weight rating. I think the heavier vehicle had more emission stuff on it. I will try to refresh my memory and see if I can explain how the system worked so you may be able to at least understand what goes on when the system works correctly.
 
  #25  
Old 03-03-2012, 09:42 AM
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Thanks. Any help would be appreciated.
 
  #26  
Old 03-03-2012, 05:42 PM
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I don't know if you would call this help, but it's the best I can come up with.
On EEC equipped with thermactor air the ECA uses two normally closed solenoids to control thermactor air flow to the engine exhaust manifold or catalytic converter and to bypass air to the atmosphere. The TAB solenoid is used to control a vacuum signal to the air bypass valve. On most applications when the valve is not energized thermactor air will be bypassed to the atmosphere. When the solenoid is energized thermactor air will be diverted to the air control valve. The TAD solenoid is a normally closed solenoid used to control vacuum to the diverter valve. The diverter valve will divert thermactor air either upstream to the exhaust manifolds or downstream to the catalytic converter.
 
  #27  
Old 03-03-2012, 07:33 PM
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Well, I realize that I'm jumping in late here, especially as Hanky seems to be going down memory lane with this thread. Have you scanned the codes? Did you just get something for EGR or did you possibly get something like a 172 (which I would bet is there, but could be hiding).
And of course, Hanky is right about most things, most of the time. I don't think anything with the Thermactor is the culprit, but it could be related.
And I'm a little surprised that Hanky didn't mention that this car was the last year for the old OBD 1 system this had, commonly referred to as EEC IV; which ran pretty well.
I would think that as you described this problem, it runs ok cold but maybe not hot?
 
  #28  
Old 03-04-2012, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by greasemark
... I would think that as you described this problem, it runs ok cold but maybe not hot?

Just the opposite. Runs well hot but runs like crap cold. I didn't see any 172 code but I can only seem to get codes for KOEO. Perhaps I need an actual scan tool for KOER.
 
  #29  
Old 03-04-2012, 08:06 AM
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There is a prescribed method/sequence to obtain the KOER codes. Did they possibly come with your code retrieval tool?
Some of the sequence was before having the tool connected to run the engine for a few minutes to heat up the O2 sensor then shut it down , connect the tool start the vehicle ,rotate the steering wheel 1/2 turn in both directions, depress the brake pedal once release it , depress the OD button on the shift lever then release it and you should start getting the three digit codes. You had to do this pretty quickly. It's been a while since I worked on those , but if I recall correctly you could also get the codes from the "check engine" light at the same time.
Greasemark is right, it is going down memory lane and that does go back a way.
 
  #30  
Old 03-04-2012, 11:47 AM
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No I don't have a code reader, I was counting blinks.
 


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