1993 F150 XL 302 Auto 2WD Ext Cab

I had to recently replace my 1 pc oil pan gasket..in doing so I dropped the pump to remove the pan. It's all back together EXCEPT the shaft to the dizzy isn't lining up to said dizzy to drive the pump, it rested to the side... (I had to raise the dizzy to reinstall the pump thinking I felt it connect when I went back in w/ it). SO, i need some suggestions on how the get the shaft in place...this is a hex shaft (size unknown), it does have a slip on alignment piece sort of like an internal tooth washer but cupped. I thought I'd also reprime the pump while I was @ this, but I have to get the shaft to behave first...

Any thoughts?

 

Oh,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,if it were only so easy, Maybe I'm just tired, so please don't mind my thinking out loud.

First you need to remove the #1 spark plug (front most plug on passenger side).
Rotate the engine manually in the normal direction of rotation (you can use alt pulley to do this) and listen or feel for the piston coming up on the compression stroke, You can feel the air coming out of the spark plug hole. There is a TDC mark on the crank pulley that has to line up with a pointer on the timing gear cover.
Once you get that done, now you need to attempt to drop in the distributor and you will feel when the gear meshes correctly with the gear on the camshaft AND the rotor has to be pointing to the no 1 spark plug tower on the dist cap. Now we get to the part that relates to your question. Sometime if you bump the dist down on the hex shaft of the oil pump it will move enough to allow the dist to go all the way down, otherwise you may need to use a pair of needle nose pliers to rotate the hex shaft a little. It is very important that the rotor points exactly to that # 1 tower on the cap. One gear tooth off can affect timing and the engine will never run quite right.. So it has to be perfect.! Aren't you glad you asked ?
By the way, if anyone feels I skipped something, please add whatever you think was skipped, thanks.

 

Well, I took another look when I got home yesterday w/ my endoscope & some steady peering w/ a flashlight. The shaft is indeed not in the right spot as the tip of it is closest to the cam gear that drives the dizzy. Also the block mold design is such that the shaft cannot simply move over as it sticks at least 1/4" above the area the dizzy is suppose to mate w/ it! The ONLY way to fix this issue is to drop the pan / pump once more & do better the next time!! My mechanic says 5 hrs @ 95.00/hr + supplies..perhaps new gasket...= ~ 600.00.

This revelation provoked many bad thoughts & verbiage.
Oh well, live & learn

 

Can you pull the oil pump drive shaft ‘up’ from the distributor bore?
The toothed washer is to keep the shaft in position installed in the pump,, so if the distributor is removed, the shaft remains in the pump. If the pump drive is ‘loose’ remove it from the distributor bore and re install it into the pump