Looking at the shift tower where the shift lever enters the top cover, you’ll notice 2 shifter side pivot pins pressed into the shift cover.
The “center round cover/cap” on the shifter lever is rotation locked onto those pins and is spring loaded under the cap.

Easy way to remove the round cap is take a decent sized pair of slip pliers/ channel locks opened fully and set them on the curved cap. Trans in Neutral, Press down to depress the internal spring and as the teeth on the sides of the pliers grip the cap, simply rotate it a few degrees and it will pop up.
Sometimes you can get them to pop up by hand..

 

A lot of times the shifter can stay installed.

Pushing/pulling the trans as far back as needed to clear the input shaft usually put the shifter against the seat, or close to. Second person is a big help for the ‘just in case’..

Once the trans is steadied and lowered on the jack, “a bit of weight to lift”, takes a strong back, but straddling the floor cover opening and seated on the seat grasping the shifter low on the stick you can lift the trans off the jack. Then, from under the truck, slip it/angle sideways over onto its side ‘temp’ until the stick clears the floor opening and on out from under the truck to stand back up straight. No gear lube will be lost..

Same on the install,, trans goes under the truck, lift from inside the cab as someone positions the jack under the trans... If your installing the trans with a plain floor jack (?) with the stick installed it helps to balance (helper) the trans during up/down and traveling on the floor during install/removal.. If it’s stickless, on a floor jack, and tips or slides off, not much to stop it’s fall..If two sets of hands are available down below, then either way works.

On the clutch kit,, Some are clutch cover (pressure plate),, friction disc and release bearing only. Not all come with the pilot bearing that installs in the crankshaft end. It’s a good time to change it out. And/or include the plastic splined clutch alignment tool as mentioned. Note any unusual wear edges, pitting, scoring etc on the input shaft nose where the bearing rides...And always go with a good quality clutch kit. Not the bargain based parts stores.

Flywheel,, planning on getting it resurfaced?
Always a good idea, Yes,, always necessary, No. But if any wear step where the friction plate rode, hot spots-blue discolored, surface cracking/checking, the it really should have a resurface grind.

 

When you are ready to install the clutch pressure plate and disc, make sure to try the disc on the input shaft of the trans so you get an idea of how perfectly lined up the trans has to be on installation. Also make sure the disc is facing with the protruding part of the center of the disc has to be facing the rear of the vehicle.If not installed correctly , it will go together, but the clutch won't release ! If possible it is always easier to have another person assist with installation holding the shift lever up in the cab. I have also used two long bolts with the heads cut off and a slot cut into them so they can be removed with a screwdriver as guide studs and this made the job of installation much easier. The bolts were about 3 in long and screwed into the bell housing holes. If possible don't allow the trans to hang on the clutch disc when installing.

 

Never would have guessed that one. Have everything out now and going to take a beak this weekend. Thanks for all the install advice. It will help alot. I ill be back I am sure.

 

When you get this job done and everything works as it should, I can see the smile on your face because you know it was done right and you can depend on it .

 

When I pulled this apart the clutch release bearing tumbled out of the bell housing in pieces. I am ready to install the bell housing now and from what I can see the 83 F150 does have any support other riding on the input shaft. That does not seem right to me. All I see is the boot for the bell housing and then guiding the bearing onto the input shaft and then the adjusting hardware. That means until I get it onto the input shaft it is just riding on the boot?

 

The release brg should ride on a tube that covers the input shaft with the fork in position on the release brg. When the trans is fully forward to be bolted to the bell hsg the clutch linkage is connected and adjusted to get the 1 inch free ply before the release brg contacts the fingers and starts releasing the clutch as the pedal is depressed. Does this make sense to you from what you see now?

 

Yes it does. Also I forgot about the clutch release lever seat which kind of adds some support. I have made some 3 inch guide bolts to help align the transmission I am a little concerned about getting the bearing on the input shaft with so little support. Any helpful hints on this. Seems like I will be a little blind once I get the transmission started in the bell housing but maybe not. Going to take a break from this for a couple days. A little cool for working outside for next few days. Thanks for all your help.

 

If I remember correctly there is a spring loaded fork on the clutch fork and that spring should hold the fork on the ball stud that the fork pivots on. Sounds like you are making good progress, will try to offer what little assistance we can, but you seem to have everything under control. Another little tip, if you have the trans in any gear, you can turn the output shaft of the trans to help align the input shaft so it will mesh with the hub of the clutch disc when pushing in the trans.

 

Trying to install the transmission and as I feared as I attempted to get the end shaft started I had to move it back and forth several times and ended up with the throw out bearing in the bottom of the clutch housing. When I attempted to reattach to the two fingered spring on the clutch release lever I found it had detached from the bell housing spring as well. To get the throw out bearing to center I have to have it well towards the end of the spring on the shift fork and it just kind of dangles there! I do not know how strong the two fingered spring should be but it does not seem to hold the bearing very well. Am I doing something wrong here or is that just the way it is and it is try and try again..