I have a 1997 7.3 powerstroke with 86,000 miles that just quit on me while driving down the road and won't start now. It didn't die off like it was starving for fuel, it just pretty much shut off. I have done a lot of testing and changed some sensors, but I just can't seem to get it running. There are no codes and the wait to start light does come on. Also it does push white smoke out the tailpipe while cranking. Sometimes it does try to start but just wont go all the way. These are the things I've tested and changed.
All sensors are motorcraft
cam sensor ( Ive tried 2 of them now), IPR valve and solenoid, IPC sensor, glow plug relay
I checked all the fuses, the check engine light comes on, I tested the hpop and had 500 psi, tested the pressure at the icp and had about 1700 psi, put shop air into the hpop system and had no air leak, no codes, while cranking it has about 152 rpm, buzz tested the injector solenoids and they all passed, it has about 10.5 volts while cranking, Checked the glow plug solenoid and it was good but I decided to replace it anyway. Its sitting in a heated garage and I also tried leaving the block heater plugged in for over 24 hours. Still nothing. I'm in need of some help please. I do have a scan tool that shows live data.

 

What scan tool are you using?

What is the difference in the HPOP test (500 psi) and the ICP pressure of 1700 psi?

Is the IDM original?

 

Im using a Matco Determinator scanner
Icp pressure was tested by removing the sensor, installing an adapter with a gauge, and cranking
HPOP was tested by basically doing the same thing, but this time I applied 12 volts + and - to the IPR valve and removed the pcm fuse. While cranking I had 500 psi
Also IDM is not original, I changed it with a reman one from Rockauto about 6 months ago. I also ordered another one couple weeks ago and tried it, but it didn't change anything so I returned it

 

So what doesn't make sense to me is only getting 500 psi when cranking with the IPR forced closed, unless the 500 psi was a value from the ICP sensor and not the manual gauge.

If so, then I would suspect an issue with the ICP sensor or its wiring. 500 psi is barely enough to start (and it might not start at that pressure).

 

The manual gauge was connected into the ICP sensor port. Forcing the IPR valve shut and removing the fuse is supposed to be another way of dead heading the HPOP. From what I've read online anyway. If I dead head the hpop at the oil lines on the heads whats the pressure supposed to be at?

 

I understand about closing the IPR and cranking to eliminate any bleed-off to the pan (the IPR's sole purpose is to bleed oil to the pan if the pressure is too high). I just don't see how you would get less cranking pressure that way than cranking without the IPR commanded closed. I was wondering if one reading was off of the manual gauge and the other was the sensor reading.

I can't recall exactly, but you should get several thousand psi cranking with the IPR closed, as long as there are no leaks and the injectors are not being actuated. Have you tried starting with the ICP sensor unplugged?

152 rpm cranking is very marginal. 500 psi ICP pressure is just barely enough pressure.

This is a good flowchart:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Byb4...aSZWqFUID4ME6g

 

I’m probably getting the numbers mixed up. I’ll do the tests again and let you know the outcome. Yea I’ve tried starting it with the icp unplugged. It’s still crank no start. The flowchart you sent me says I need 200 rpm while cranking. Think I should try a new starter? I have cranked on this one a lot now and when it does try to start the rpm’s jump over 200.

 

If your rpms are in the 160-170 range, I think you are probably ok. If not, try cranking without the belt off and see if you get better cranking.

Be sure to rest the starter some between cranks. You don't want to burn it up.

Your high pressure oil pressure sounds marginal to me.

I would also be testing the resistance on the glow plugs and wiring. That probably isn't your main issue, but you want them to be working well.

The problem I hate is the pass through valve cover gasket wiring (UVCWH). If they are original, you might want to change them out.