I have a 99 F250 crew cab 4x4. This problem has been ongoing for about 2 years. It seems to be hit and miss. Here is the problem. Every now and then when I try to start the truck, nothing happens. It almost sounds like the sound you get when you have a dead battery, just a click. If I push in on the key and the cylinder, sometimes it starts, sometimes it does not. It may start on the first try or the fourth. My guess is that it is the cylinder is wearing out or some contacts within the column. Just looking for ideas to try before I have to take it to the dealer. Thanks for any info.

 

the easiest thing to do is pull the cover off of the column and inspect the wiring for chafes or breaks, and follow the loom down under the dash, is that looks ok you should remove the lock cylinder and try and clean it with something like brake clean and see how it does

if you don't know how to remove the lock cylinder all you have to do is while you have the column cover off put the key in the ignition and turn it to just before the key on position and there is a button on the bottom of it, press it with a pick, or small screwdriver and pull it out at the same time.

 

Do you get a either a CLICK or a START everytime while trying a start? Auto trans correct? Both Park 'and' Neutral starts have the same problem?

Next time it just clicks with a no start, see if the click is coming from the starter relay.. (on the right/passenger inner fender, looks like a starter solenoid)..

I think it may be just coincidence that holding the ignition lock set 'in' while trying a crank attempt would be the issue 'especially' if your getting a audible/electrical 'click'.. Cycling the ignition On/Off might though for an eventual start.. The lockset is geared/linked to the lower column mounted ignition switch, and pushing in the ignition has no 'real' bearing on the amount of extention into the lower switch.. Unless the ignition switch wasn't being extended 'in' far enough 'mechanically' due to gear/rod problems for the crank position, but you 'most likely' wouldn't hear a 'click' unless the connection was made, then the circuit/current dropped out..

The starter has a solenoid as well, and the starter relay works in conjuction for current feed to the starter solenoid..

If you have a volt meter/DVOM, continuity light, (even a 12v light bulb with a 2 wire pig tail) hook it up on the small post on the relay 'positive' leaving the connector in place, and ground the other end.. Watch on a crank attempt.. If the light 'stays lit' or holds voltage while holding the key in the crank position on a start attempt, then the ignition, lock set, range sensor functions are eliminated as an issue.. If you get no light/current there, or it drops the current/voltage with the ignition still held, then it could be the ignition switch/linkage, trans range sensor or circuits..

If the starter relay 'clicks' and energizes and you get a good voltage with no drop outs on the 'larger' relay lug (leads to the starter solenoid) then the next thing to check would be the starter solenoid..

My money would be on the starter relay, and is an easy place to start a diagnosis and eliminate some of the posibilites.......

 

Thanks for the info. I will try this over the next few days and see what I can come up with.