Cracker Exhaust Manifold -- weldable ?
Hey Guys, CRACKED NOT CRACKER LOL ---SORRY don't see how to change the heading.
I have a 03 f250 --- my exhaust manifold is cracked. Its accessable with the starter out. On a lift someone should be able to get a weld on it. Just wondering if it will work/hold ? Any suggestions ? Its a pretty clean/straight crack -- maybe 2" or so.
Thanks !!
I have a 03 f250 --- my exhaust manifold is cracked. Its accessable with the starter out. On a lift someone should be able to get a weld on it. Just wondering if it will work/hold ? Any suggestions ? Its a pretty clean/straight crack -- maybe 2" or so.
Thanks !!
Last edited by F250SUPERDUTYDUDE; Feb 4, 2012 at 02:44 AM.
Pretty hard to do in place, but you could try..
If the metal looks gray orange peeled, sometimes kind of a blistered, the metal usually is hard/brittle and doesn't respond to a weld very well. Manifolds are realitively thin, dicey to weld unless on a boss/flanged area. They tend to burn through pretty easy in the thin area's when rod welding. Nickel rod needs a fair amount of heat (and pre heat prior to welding) to weld clean, as well as a good prep. to accept a weld. Brazing is way hot and usually results in a new crack along side, not to mention the possibilties of the flame !
In a perfect situation with the manifold on a bench, you would grind the weld surface back and maybe narrow groove the crack out slightly. Then, use a torch and preheat the cracked area slightly. Weld the crack with nickel rod being careful to not get the repair area too hot. As it cools you can peen the weld so not to shrinkle rapidly and re crack. Helps to not let the manifold cool too rapidly as well, more so on thin surfaces.
After the crack is repaired, the manifold matting/flange is checked for flat. If the manifold is bowed/twisted, it gets surface 'fly cut' to make sure it 100% flat so to seal well, and not stress the repair..
Welding 'in place' or on frames, bodies ect. brings concern with components/modules as well..
If the metal looks gray orange peeled, sometimes kind of a blistered, the metal usually is hard/brittle and doesn't respond to a weld very well. Manifolds are realitively thin, dicey to weld unless on a boss/flanged area. They tend to burn through pretty easy in the thin area's when rod welding. Nickel rod needs a fair amount of heat (and pre heat prior to welding) to weld clean, as well as a good prep. to accept a weld. Brazing is way hot and usually results in a new crack along side, not to mention the possibilties of the flame !
In a perfect situation with the manifold on a bench, you would grind the weld surface back and maybe narrow groove the crack out slightly. Then, use a torch and preheat the cracked area slightly. Weld the crack with nickel rod being careful to not get the repair area too hot. As it cools you can peen the weld so not to shrinkle rapidly and re crack. Helps to not let the manifold cool too rapidly as well, more so on thin surfaces.
After the crack is repaired, the manifold matting/flange is checked for flat. If the manifold is bowed/twisted, it gets surface 'fly cut' to make sure it 100% flat so to seal well, and not stress the repair..
Welding 'in place' or on frames, bodies ect. brings concern with components/modules as well..
Last edited by Hayapower; Jan 15, 2012 at 07:43 PM.
Hey Haya,
Thanks for the reply.
I'm worried about snapping the bolts trying to remove the old mainfold so thats why I was hoping it could be welded in place.
If I got it off --- I'd probably just replace it. I found them online for like $70-80 -- not sure of the dealer price.
I've been driving it with the leak for 2 years now. Just like to see how she sounds fixed. I'd like to enjoy the truck without the noise.
Thanks
Thanks for the reply.
I'm worried about snapping the bolts trying to remove the old mainfold so thats why I was hoping it could be welded in place.
If I got it off --- I'd probably just replace it. I found them online for like $70-80 -- not sure of the dealer price.
I've been driving it with the leak for 2 years now. Just like to see how she sounds fixed. I'd like to enjoy the truck without the noise.
Thanks
Last edited by F250SUPERDUTYDUDE; Jan 11, 2012 at 11:22 PM. Reason: sp
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