F250 7.5 engine runs until warm and dies
#1
03-31-2024, 11:27 AM
F250 7.5 engine runs until warm and dies
Out of no where my f250 7.5 xlt will start and run for about 3-5 minutes then it will sputter and die. It will immediately start back up but die immediately also. I did notice every time when it’s getting ready to die the rpm gauge will fluctuate. And the fuel relay will chatter until the key is turned off. Fuel psi steady and 38psi.
#2
03-31-2024, 12:41 PM
It does sound like a poor electrical connection that decides to open once heated.
Good place to start would be from battery negative terminal to all places those wires go to and connect.
If you check and verify they are clean and tight, do the same thing starting at the battery positive terminal and verify those are clean and tight.
Remember, just looking at them, does nothing !
Good place to start would be from battery negative terminal to all places those wires go to and connect.
If you check and verify they are clean and tight, do the same thing starting at the battery positive terminal and verify those are clean and tight.
Remember, just looking at them, does nothing !
#3
03-31-2024, 05:49 PM
I have cleaned and tightened all the grounds I could find. But I have not done the positive side. I’ll do that next
#4
04-05-2024, 12:57 AM
Out of no where my f250 7.5 xlt will start and run for about 3-5 minutes then it will sputter and die. It will immediately start back up but die immediately also. I did notice every time when it’s getting ready to die the rpm gauge will fluctuate. And the fuel relay will chatter until the key is turned off. Fuel psi steady and 38psi.
#5
04-05-2024, 02:47 AM
He said he can immediately start back up then it's not fuel, not battery not poor ground when his rpm gauge will fluctuate that's the symptom of MAF. Simply unplug MAF, then start up the car and drive it should run longer than 10 minutes without a problem other than the lack of power when it's in limp mode plus a CEL that can be cleared off later. After 10 minutes shut off the car and plug the connector back to MAF and start it again, drive for 3-5 minutes and car die again, then it's time to buy a new MAF. It's pretty easy to test if it's MAF's fault, don't even need to test the voltage on MAF.
#6
04-05-2024, 05:55 AM
He said he can immediately start back up then it's not fuel, not battery not poor ground when his rpm gauge will fluctuate that's the symptom of MAF. Simply unplug MAF, then start up the car and drive it should run longer than 10 minutes without a problem other than the lack of power when it's in limp mode plus a CEL that can be cleared off later. After 10 minutes shut off the car and plug the connector back to MAF and start it again, drive for 3-5 minutes and car die again, then it's time to buy a new MAF. It's pretty easy to test if it's MAF's fault, don't even need to test the voltage on MAF.
#7
04-05-2024, 08:45 AM
If it was fuel he can't start and die. He said he can start then die, that's air related, not fuel. It might not be MAF 100% but it should be air related especially when he has issue with his RPM gauge.
#8
04-05-2024, 01:14 PM
Look at the RPM clue and find out why.it is jumping around.
We don't know what year we are looking at
Older year vehicle RPM comes from one place while newer year vehicle.RPM signal comes from another.
Very suspicious of that area, do you wish to pursue that area further, let us know, thanks.
We don't know what year we are looking at
Older year vehicle RPM comes from one place while newer year vehicle.RPM signal comes from another.
Very suspicious of that area, do you wish to pursue that area further, let us know, thanks.
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