I just purchased a 7.3L Diesel F350 Dually. I noticed the brake line for the rear dually wheel has pinched on both sides as the picture shows. From the way how it was pinched, it looks like professional or used a professional tool. It must have a reason to block these brake lines. Can anyone provide an idea?

Also from the second attached picture, there is another rubber line was plugged. Anyone has idea where this line should be connected to?

Thank you in advance

 

Can you tell us where the hose that is not connected comes from? Differential?

 

The rear axle may have been lifted by a forklift without regard to the brake lines. Bring it to the dealer to be looked at.
That rubber hose is the rear axle breaker tube, it gets routed and secured somewhere to the underside of the bed.

 

That vent is placed up as high as possible , this may be only one reason.
When driving the gear lube in the rear axle gets pretty warm, so the vent allows the pressure to get out and not blow seals.
The other half of the logic is when we drive through water, flooded areas, that water is cold and the sudden cooling creates a vacuum in the differential and if the vent is low near water , it will suck it into the differential and rear axle assy. Contaminated lube= short axle life. A lot of folks are not aware that they should check the rear end for water in the lube (soupy) after driving through deep water. And should be changed ASAP.

 

Thank for the explanation of the rubber hose. I feel better now it is the breather for rear axle, not part of brake system.

 

from the picture, it seems no rear brake as it is now, even through, I drove on the local road with only less than 20mi/hr, the brake seems ok,

I guess it must be replaced. I saw making flare of copper lines or buy a set specific for this truck. Anyone suggest where to get these brake lines?

 

You should not use copper tubing for hydraulic brake lines.
Brake lines are usually steel. You can get easily bendable lines from places like NAPA. They are also somewhat rust resistant.
If you are going to make your own brake lines, the ends MUST be double flared.
If you are aware of these things, just look at it as a reminder, if not now you have some idea of what to do and what not to do.
Brake lines should have no unions, just straight runs, but some people do it anyway..

If you drive where roads are salted in winter, you might want to check the entire run of the steel lines where they are anchored to the chassis. The salt gets in there , can;t get out and speeds up the corrosion process. The nasty part is we find out about this after the line rusts through and brake fluid and pressure is lost when the brakes are applied.

 

With it pinched like that you would have only partial brake application to that wheel. That's an easy fix. Measure the length of your damaged line and you should be able to get a replacement at any good auto store. The big deal is matching the fittings. You might even have to buy an adapter fitting. For such a short line, I would just get a premade, galvonized steel line. It will last many years.With bleeding, the whole job should take an hour to complete.If you don't have line wrenches, cut the line flush with the fitting and use a six point socket to remove.