I HAVE A 03 3500 6.0 SW AUTO 4X4. JUST LAST WEEK I REPLACED BOTH BATTRIES AS THEY KEPT GOING DEAD IN ABOUT 2 WEEK IF I DID NOT DRIVE THE TRUCK. SO I BOUGHT 850 COLD CRANKING AMPS BATTRIES TO REPLACE THE ONES THAT CAME WITH IT. I ALSO PUT A FULL CHARGE IN THEM AND DIDN'T DRIVE THE TRUCK FOR 2 WEEKS AND SURE ENOUGH THE BATTRIES WERE DEAD. NOW I FEEL I PROBABLY DIDN'T NEED THEM, SOMETHING MUST BE PULLING THEM DOWN. THE TRUCK IS STOCK AS IT CAME FROM THE FACTORY NOT ONE THING ADDED. HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THAT PROBLEM. I HATE TO HAVE TO TAKE IT TO FORD AS I CAN SEE $100.00 FLYING AWAY. VERN

 

Yeah, it sounds like either something is drawing a constant current on your battery when the ignition is off or your alternator is bad. I would first rule out the alternator - no need to remove it - just drive your truck toAutoZone if you can get it started, and they'lltest the alternatorfor free. You might want to take some jumper cables with you also.

 

barbie! thanks 4 the reply, bought the battries there so that is a good idea vern

 

I have same problem. Can't find anything drawing current. I thought it was my cell phone charger that was plugged in but it still does it. Not sure what to do. Just figured I was just another stupid truck driver. I just make sure I start it once every week or so. Alternator just fine.

 

Did anyone find a solution to this problem. Also if anyone would list what battery they have in, I would be curious. I am somewhat having the same issues, but in reality I think we are just facing batteries that are having trouble holding their reserve capacity....do you guys batteries do well if you run your radio for an hour then try to start the truck?

 

how sure are you there is no drain?how did you test for it ? you need to get a multimeter you should be able to borrowoneat autozone. and check it at the batt. remove the positive cable with everthing off put one lead on the post and one on the cable set meter in amps (.05amps is the ford spec) if you find a high drain start pulling fuse's tell it goes away . that whats causing the drain . do not repace your altenators!you should be able to borrowoneat autozone.

 

Youtube will show you some tricks to this problem with a Parasitic drain . I had the same problem and found that the new radio i just put in was drawn down the batts..

 

Hey mind if I jump in? I am new to this forum and have the same issue with battery going dead if not run/started for a couple days. I have a 2011 F250 gas engine. I have checked alternator out put and its 14.55 volt. I checked the amp draw with everything off an I have around 0.74 amps and I believe 0.05 is where I should be. I have pulled all the standard fuses and nothing.\ changes. Should I also pull all the relays and high voltage fuses? Thanks in advance, Theris

 

There are some things to consider,
Your vehicle has many modules that all consume some power and when you shut down the engine not all shut down at the same time. Some require over 30 minutes to shut down and if you take an amp reading before they shut down and go to sleep mode, you get an incorrect reading. The thing is to check for the drain about 45 minutes to an hour later. Some vehicles have an accessory delay relay or battery saver relay to prevent battery drain.
Something else to think about, there is a certain procedure to follow when looking for parasitic drains. Playing with the battery cable to measure it is and can be ineffective.
Check U Tube for the lengthy procedure. Last, but not least if everything is working as it should and 3 hours later something causes a module to be awakened , now the drain begins and if you aren't there to catch it , well, you know the result..
A good electrical tech can and will find the problem, but they are a little difficult to find these days.

 

Hanky, Thanks, I did not realize some modules could take so long to go to sleep. So additional question, If I am pulling fuses to check for a draw there could be an extended time I would have to wait in order to make sure?