Not Charging
#11
02-11-2016, 10:36 AM
Couple simple test points...
Pull the alternator connector out,, and disconnect the alternator lug.. Test the disconnected 'cable' lug for battery voltage (proves out fuse links). Yes/No? Although there should always be batt voltage there, if the voltage reg happened to be active, it would/could have voltage present there without the fuse links proven to be hot.
On the Alt. connector,, look at the "Light Green/Red" wire and corresponding pin connector. With the ignition in ON or RUN position, (batt charged) you should have spec voltage there.. Yes/No?
Again on the same connector, checking the "Orange/Light Blue" wire and the corresponding pin connector. Should have voltage there as well, only there it will be 'Hot at all times". Yes/No?
If there's no voltage at the LG/RD, then either a fuse (CJB F2 45=10amp) or connection/cluster issue. If no voltage there, "as a test ONLY", add in a test lead to the installed connector and run the truck. Test the voltage at the connected cable lug..
If the "Orange/Light Blue" doesn't have voltage, it shares a splice to the one of fuse links, Brown link. The Alt. battery cable lug carries two fuse links, Gray links.
You can bench test the Alt while installed. If all the test points carry the required voltages, the Alt is bad..
Sometimes it helps to probe the Alt connector wires just north of their connector to make sure there is no wire breaks or opens..
Pull the alternator connector out,, and disconnect the alternator lug.. Test the disconnected 'cable' lug for battery voltage (proves out fuse links). Yes/No? Although there should always be batt voltage there, if the voltage reg happened to be active, it would/could have voltage present there without the fuse links proven to be hot.
On the Alt. connector,, look at the "Light Green/Red" wire and corresponding pin connector. With the ignition in ON or RUN position, (batt charged) you should have spec voltage there.. Yes/No?
Again on the same connector, checking the "Orange/Light Blue" wire and the corresponding pin connector. Should have voltage there as well, only there it will be 'Hot at all times". Yes/No?
If there's no voltage at the LG/RD, then either a fuse (CJB F2 45=10amp) or connection/cluster issue. If no voltage there, "as a test ONLY", add in a test lead to the installed connector and run the truck. Test the voltage at the connected cable lug..
If the "Orange/Light Blue" doesn't have voltage, it shares a splice to the one of fuse links, Brown link. The Alt. battery cable lug carries two fuse links, Gray links.
You can bench test the Alt while installed. If all the test points carry the required voltages, the Alt is bad..
Sometimes it helps to probe the Alt connector wires just north of their connector to make sure there is no wire breaks or opens..
Last edited by Hayapower; 02-11-2016 at 10:57 AM.
#12
02-11-2016, 11:03 AM
If you do decide to get a Ford alternator you will need a 2C3Z-10V346-ABRM (#2C3Z10V346ABRM: Alternator) if the truck was built before 11/4/02. If it was built after 11/4/02 you will need a 3C3Z-10V346-DBRM (#3C3Z10V346DBRM: Alternator).
#13
02-11-2016, 11:20 AM
Couple simple test points...
Pull the alternator connector out,, and disconnect the alternator lug.. Test the disconnected 'cable' lug for battery voltage (proves out fuse links). Yes/No? Although there should always be batt voltage there, if the voltage reg happened to be active, it would/could have voltage present there without the fuse links proven to be hot.
On the Alt. connector,, look at the "Light Green/Red" wire and corresponding pin connector. With the ignition in ON or RUN position, (batt charged) you should have spec voltage there.. Yes/No?
Again on the same connector, checking the "Orange/Light Blue" wire and the corresponding pin connector. Should have voltage there as well, only there it will be 'Hot at all times". Yes/No?
If there's no voltage at the LG/RD, then either a fuse (CJB F2 45=10amp) or connection/cluster issue. If no voltage there, "as a test ONLY", add in a test lead to the installed connector and run the truck. Test the voltage at the connected cable lug..
If the "Orange/Light Blue" doesn't have voltage, it shares a splice to the one of fuse links, Brown link. The Alt. battery cable lug carries two fuse links, Gray links.
You can bench test the Alt while installed. If all the test points carry the required voltages, the Alt is bad..
Sometimes it helps to probe the Alt connector wires just north of their connector to make sure there is no wire breaks or opens..
Pull the alternator connector out,, and disconnect the alternator lug.. Test the disconnected 'cable' lug for battery voltage (proves out fuse links). Yes/No? Although there should always be batt voltage there, if the voltage reg happened to be active, it would/could have voltage present there without the fuse links proven to be hot.
On the Alt. connector,, look at the "Light Green/Red" wire and corresponding pin connector. With the ignition in ON or RUN position, (batt charged) you should have spec voltage there.. Yes/No?
Again on the same connector, checking the "Orange/Light Blue" wire and the corresponding pin connector. Should have voltage there as well, only there it will be 'Hot at all times". Yes/No?
If there's no voltage at the LG/RD, then either a fuse (CJB F2 45=10amp) or connection/cluster issue. If no voltage there, "as a test ONLY", add in a test lead to the installed connector and run the truck. Test the voltage at the connected cable lug..
If the "Orange/Light Blue" doesn't have voltage, it shares a splice to the one of fuse links, Brown link. The Alt. battery cable lug carries two fuse links, Gray links.
You can bench test the Alt while installed. If all the test points carry the required voltages, the Alt is bad..
Sometimes it helps to probe the Alt connector wires just north of their connector to make sure there is no wire breaks or opens..
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