Older F250 buyers guide?
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1
Older F250 buyers guide?
Hey all, newb here.
Have been looking into purchasing an older (86-ish?) F250 Regular cab, 4wd, auto trans beater and was just wondering if anyone here can offer any advice as far as what to look for when I finally get ahold of the owner. You know, was frame-rot a problem, how did the trannies hold up, or any other good/bad I may need to know. The fenders are a bit rusted above the wheels, and I noticed the cab corners had been taken care of with a patch kit, but there didn't seem to be any leakage from any of the vitals, the rest of the body is straight, and there doesn't appear to be any suspension sag or uneven-ness. And for $350.00................
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Have been looking into purchasing an older (86-ish?) F250 Regular cab, 4wd, auto trans beater and was just wondering if anyone here can offer any advice as far as what to look for when I finally get ahold of the owner. You know, was frame-rot a problem, how did the trannies hold up, or any other good/bad I may need to know. The fenders are a bit rusted above the wheels, and I noticed the cab corners had been taken care of with a patch kit, but there didn't seem to be any leakage from any of the vitals, the rest of the body is straight, and there doesn't appear to be any suspension sag or uneven-ness. And for $350.00................
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 608
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RE: Older F250 buyers guide?
Well I had a 1985, F250, I drove it an passed it down to 2 of my 3 boys , it had a tad over 412,000 miles on it when we finally retired it to the big parking lot above.
Never had no major Engine problem , tranny or rear failure
put 1 timing chain set on it at 200,000, it had double roller an gears, I think about 4 alt , 3 waterpumps, several valve cover gaskits an of course probaly about 8 tuneups , carb was rebuilt 3 times I think, an cant remember # tires, an 2 Rad , I think, an several radial arm bushing sets , get the neroprene ones ( cut the rear bracket rivets off an replace the rivets with bolts make installing the bushings a breeze ) I think 2 master cylinders , 2 fuel pumps , an cant remember brake jobs , all these are common weear items on nearly any vechile you know,
ole girl had the 351W, 5.8 L , 2V carb , tranny was a C6, an the rear was the 10.25, with 3.55 gears, rode like a dump truck till you put like 500 lbs in the rear then it was nice smooth ride, I tweaked the carb an was able to get around 13 1/2 mpg outta her.
yea there all prone to the cab lower corners rusting out,,,, only seen northren trucks with rusted out fender wells, if the Rad has plastic tanks there prone to leak. drivers side of the seat also seems to break an sag after a spell, an the rear axle seals are a bit tricky to keep from leaking, you can get a speedy sleeve set for them after you get a grove in the ole axle stub , but you have to take a cut wheel with a small grinder an cut it down a bit as its too wide, an then smooth the lip with a bit of emery paper , remember to use loctite when you install it so the oil dont get under the speedy sleeve when you install it.
If I could find another one in good shape yes sir I would buy it !!!!!!! , an we did the oil changes at 5000 miles, she finally got to where she was burning about 1 1/2 quarts of oil between changes the last 75-80,000 miles. An we changed the tranny oil every 30,000, put a drain plug on the tranny pan , made it a lot easier. an we drained the converter as well each time so all the ole tranny oil was drained, drained the rear diff every 90,000 miles.
oh on the rear brakes , if you got new drums , or get the old ones cut all the way back to the rear of the drum ,,, , you can install the 2 1/2 wide shoes instead of the 2 " that come from the factory , an go up to the next size larger brake wheel cylinder, I cant say for sure but there 1 1/8 " I think ( the wider shoes an larger wheel cyl. are for the 1 ton truck ), sure made the girl stop better.,,, Good Luck
Never had no major Engine problem , tranny or rear failure
put 1 timing chain set on it at 200,000, it had double roller an gears, I think about 4 alt , 3 waterpumps, several valve cover gaskits an of course probaly about 8 tuneups , carb was rebuilt 3 times I think, an cant remember # tires, an 2 Rad , I think, an several radial arm bushing sets , get the neroprene ones ( cut the rear bracket rivets off an replace the rivets with bolts make installing the bushings a breeze ) I think 2 master cylinders , 2 fuel pumps , an cant remember brake jobs , all these are common weear items on nearly any vechile you know,
ole girl had the 351W, 5.8 L , 2V carb , tranny was a C6, an the rear was the 10.25, with 3.55 gears, rode like a dump truck till you put like 500 lbs in the rear then it was nice smooth ride, I tweaked the carb an was able to get around 13 1/2 mpg outta her.
yea there all prone to the cab lower corners rusting out,,,, only seen northren trucks with rusted out fender wells, if the Rad has plastic tanks there prone to leak. drivers side of the seat also seems to break an sag after a spell, an the rear axle seals are a bit tricky to keep from leaking, you can get a speedy sleeve set for them after you get a grove in the ole axle stub , but you have to take a cut wheel with a small grinder an cut it down a bit as its too wide, an then smooth the lip with a bit of emery paper , remember to use loctite when you install it so the oil dont get under the speedy sleeve when you install it.
If I could find another one in good shape yes sir I would buy it !!!!!!! , an we did the oil changes at 5000 miles, she finally got to where she was burning about 1 1/2 quarts of oil between changes the last 75-80,000 miles. An we changed the tranny oil every 30,000, put a drain plug on the tranny pan , made it a lot easier. an we drained the converter as well each time so all the ole tranny oil was drained, drained the rear diff every 90,000 miles.
oh on the rear brakes , if you got new drums , or get the old ones cut all the way back to the rear of the drum ,,, , you can install the 2 1/2 wide shoes instead of the 2 " that come from the factory , an go up to the next size larger brake wheel cylinder, I cant say for sure but there 1 1/8 " I think ( the wider shoes an larger wheel cyl. are for the 1 ton truck ), sure made the girl stop better.,,, Good Luck
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