truck won't start f250 6.0, ya
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 44
hopefully last post, just as an fyi, more than anything, for others.
the plastic cap that is built into the starter, where the control and main wires plug into, is a little bit loose, it moves a little bit, when it shifts to the left, no start, when it shifts to the right, all the way, yes start, so far started 10 times, I waited an hour, started right away, no icons in the dashboard after it starts to run
I will wait now longer, until 7pm, and overnight and see if it starts, if you don't see another post, this is solved, the control wire in the solenoid, that plastic assembly is a little bit loose, I tightened it really well and it works like a charm now
cross fingers, hopefully this is it
still going to replace the cables, as soon as I get paid
what an adventure
the plastic cap that is built into the starter, where the control and main wires plug into, is a little bit loose, it moves a little bit, when it shifts to the left, no start, when it shifts to the right, all the way, yes start, so far started 10 times, I waited an hour, started right away, no icons in the dashboard after it starts to run
I will wait now longer, until 7pm, and overnight and see if it starts, if you don't see another post, this is solved, the control wire in the solenoid, that plastic assembly is a little bit loose, I tightened it really well and it works like a charm now
cross fingers, hopefully this is it
still going to replace the cables, as soon as I get paid
what an adventure
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,528
We all learn a little something every day and that's good.
What you are trying to do with the resistance test isn't a very good indicator.
You need to do a voltage drop test with the circuit loaded as when trying to start the vehicle. The fact that you found the loose connection and corrected it is worthy of "good work". In the summer , the diesels will usually start with one battery , if fully charged. If one is good and the other is connected and is questionable it will bring the good one down and you will experience starting problems.
Have a good day and follow the forum when you can , there is a load of info to help with all sorts of problems.
What you are trying to do with the resistance test isn't a very good indicator.
You need to do a voltage drop test with the circuit loaded as when trying to start the vehicle. The fact that you found the loose connection and corrected it is worthy of "good work". In the summer , the diesels will usually start with one battery , if fully charged. If one is good and the other is connected and is questionable it will bring the good one down and you will experience starting problems.
Have a good day and follow the forum when you can , there is a load of info to help with all sorts of problems.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 44
thanks for help
by the way, do you know how to remove the dashboard piece where the radio is ? the cassette player is getting old and it is broken anyways, so I wanted to replace that with something more modern
truck runs smooth, I drove it a little bit and then back and it started later
by the way, do you know how to remove the dashboard piece where the radio is ? the cassette player is getting old and it is broken anyways, so I wanted to replace that with something more modern
truck runs smooth, I drove it a little bit and then back and it started later
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,528
I don't what year your vehicle is so I can't be specific, but most Ford dash pieces are plastic and pop into openings. Carefully pry the plastic covering off and you will probably be able to see how it's attached once you get started.
Some Ford radios required a pair of pins shaped like horseshoes to release the radio section.
Some Ford radios required a pair of pins shaped like horseshoes to release the radio section.
Last edited by hanky; May 15, 2011 at 06:05 AM.
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