Will not restart after a drive.
#1
10-17-2018, 12:29 PM
Will not restart after a drive.
1987 Ford F250 7.5 l
Run the truck for about a half hour drive. Shut it off and when I go to restart it it won't restart it sounds like the starter is grinding. Then it acts like my battery is died. I have already replaced battery starter and not sure where to go from here. Plus replaced battery cables.
Run the truck for about a half hour drive. Shut it off and when I go to restart it it won't restart it sounds like the starter is grinding. Then it acts like my battery is died. I have already replaced battery starter and not sure where to go from here. Plus replaced battery cables.
#2
10-17-2018, 02:41 PM
Suppose you consider trying this,
Turn the headlights on, then go to start the engine.
If the lights go dim, battery is questionable or cables are no good,or starter is drawing too much power (possible internal short-excessive drag).
If lights do not go dim there is excessive resistance in the starter solenoid on the firewall.
Let us know what you find.
Turn the headlights on, then go to start the engine.
If the lights go dim, battery is questionable or cables are no good,or starter is drawing too much power (possible internal short-excessive drag).
If lights do not go dim there is excessive resistance in the starter solenoid on the firewall.
Let us know what you find.
#3
10-17-2018, 06:04 PM
So got it going. Drove for about 1 hour. Stoped got gas and went to restart. Would not start. Did same left it there for a couple hours. Came back and it started right up. So dove home shut it off. Wait 5 min tryed to restart and Did the same again.
#4
10-18-2018, 09:54 AM
Have you checked your grounds? Is the block grounded to the frame, and the body? Take them off and clean off the paint under the bolt heads. A star washer under the lead will help insure good electrical contact. I run extra ground straps, using the largest cable Oreilly’s had, from the alternator mount to the frame and to the body. So many electrical issues disappeared when I did that, it was amazing.
#5
10-18-2018, 01:06 PM
I have to agree Hkunz gave you some good advice.
Most folks just look at the ground connections and that really does nothing.
They need to be removed , cleaned and apply some dielectric grease over them to keep contact with the air and moisture from starting corrosion under the connection.
Did you consider trying the simple tests I suggested in an earlier post ?
Most folks just look at the ground connections and that really does nothing.
They need to be removed , cleaned and apply some dielectric grease over them to keep contact with the air and moisture from starting corrosion under the connection.
Did you consider trying the simple tests I suggested in an earlier post ?
#7
10-30-2018, 06:36 PM
Starter? Flywheel?
Now I have a loud grinding. As if starter not caughting flywheel. Any thoughts.
#8
10-31-2018, 09:12 AM
Is your starter getting enough juice? When you crank, does the voltage go down? Clean all the wire connections from the battery to the starter, if you haven’t already. Can you rig up a voltmeter to the starter while you short across the terminals and see how much it drops? I don’t know if you have starter shims, you might have to space the starter further away from the flywheel, or if they are installed correctly, are the starter bolts tight?
i run 4 gauge from the alternator mount directly to the negative terminals on both batteries in my rockcrawler, and 10 gauge with fusible link from the alternator hot to the battery control terminals and again on to the batteries. All my gremlins disappeared.
You didn’t mention replacing the solenoid, if your model year has a separate solenoid. My 73 F 250 had a solenoid, not a direct piggyback connection. I have no idea what my 14 F250 has, way too complex for me.
It might seem silly, but is there a good electrical connection between the starter and the block? If you live in road salt states, corrosion can find its way into places you can’t even imagine. I’d make sure the block and starter mounting surfaces are clean of corrosion.
i run 4 gauge from the alternator mount directly to the negative terminals on both batteries in my rockcrawler, and 10 gauge with fusible link from the alternator hot to the battery control terminals and again on to the batteries. All my gremlins disappeared.
You didn’t mention replacing the solenoid, if your model year has a separate solenoid. My 73 F 250 had a solenoid, not a direct piggyback connection. I have no idea what my 14 F250 has, way too complex for me.
It might seem silly, but is there a good electrical connection between the starter and the block? If you live in road salt states, corrosion can find its way into places you can’t even imagine. I’d make sure the block and starter mounting surfaces are clean of corrosion.
#9
11-30-2018, 12:02 PM
Thanks now need more advice
Got a 1987 ford f250. 460 engine. Which carb should I do a edelbrock 6oo cfm or a elelbrock 750 cfm?