OK.

New to this forum. I have a 2006 Ford Five Hundred AWD. It failed Massachusetts State Inspection because the "eBrake does not hold between 1100-1300 rpm". Had a shop check her out and he assumed the ebrake cable needs replacing. but he said it looked fine. So he replaced the rear calibers because they were not working. Which seemed accurate because the pads that where put on last year looked brand new and had 100% life on them, especially the driver side rear wheel. The driver side rear rotor had much worse rust and rot than the passenger side rear rotor so he replaced that rotor as well, and new calipers on both sides.
The shop recommended that I drive the car for a few days, making sure I use the ebrake once and a while so it can self adjust.

My question is this, what should I expect from this? If using the ebrake once in a while doesnt self adjust, assuming the ebrake cable is ok as shop tells me, is there any adjust I can make at the foot op ebrake pedal?

 

I believe you received good advice.
It is a very common problem for parking brake parts to seize from non use especially where corrosive chemicals are used on the roads.
If you apply the parking brake each time you park the car it should adjust automatically.
Usually after several applications it should be ready to be reinspected. You can even see if it holds when applied and you try to move the car.

 

well, it definitely holds. I can put the car in drive, apply the ebrake and get out of the car and the brake holds. but as soon as you give the car gas going over 1000rpm, the car will move. forwards or reverse. When you push the pedal, the cable moves. maybe the new rotors arent worn in enough? but i have used the car for the last 2 days and applied the ebrake everywhere ive been,

 

Something you can try,
With the parking brake applied move the car a few feet to allow the new pads and rotors to "burnish" the new rear pads and rotors. Do this a few times, You should notice an improvement after doing this a few times. How hard down are you depressing the parking brake pedal, the harder you depress it the better it should hold.

 

the parking brake pedal is depressed pretty much to the floor.

 

it almost feels like the parking brake cable isnt fully enaging? I had my GF apply the parking brake while I watched the driver side rear pad make contact with the rotor. Then had her give it gas while in driver and when she got it to around 1000 rpm, you can see the wheel start to rotate... and the pad kind of stutters forward a long the rotor.

maybe i should try your burnish recommendation

 

If after several applications the parking brake pedal is not getting higher and holding, I suggest you take the vehicle back to the place that did the work and let them know it is not adjusting as it should. It should never need to go almost to the floor.

 

yea, its looking like i might have to go back to him. i mean, i got it back on Thursday and he said to drive it for a few days so the brakes get worn in. And I have been. And using the parking brake much more. I went for a longer than normal ride for my sunday routine. A mechanic friend said to try to 30/30/30 procedure to get brakes worn in. Drive 30mph come a complete smooth stop. wait 30 seconds so brakes can cool and repeat the 30mph complete stop about 30 times). Still the parking is not holding when getting to about 1000 rpms.

Ive been farting around at home today for the last few hours. So I decided to go for a little drive, and when I got in the car, I put the car into drive and before I released the parking brake.which was fully to the floor, and the car moved forward with the parking "engaged". To me, the brakes kind of feel spongy, and they did feel spongy before. It definitely doesnt feel like brand new brakes to me.

would not bleeding the brakes after the service he did cause this type of issue? I dont know for 100% certainity that he bleed the brakes but Im just thinking maybe he didnt

 

Anytime you open the hydraulic system for any reason like replacing calipers for example, the air has to be removed from the system. With new pads and rotors it could take a few hard stops to get the pads and rotors "burnished". Usually the shop does this for the customer, but sometimes they let the customer drive it a while for this to take place. The rear calipers should have adjusted by this time and your shop may need to double check if everything is working as it should.

 

i dropped her off this morning. explained that my main concern is getting this ebrake right. and he said he would check it out. like him, i feel like the ebrake cable is working probably, at least you can visually seeing it moving when applying it, but it does go to the floor.

heres hoping he can figure it out. and thanks for your replies. I really appreciate it... cars can be VERY frustrating