my resister wire at one time got hot and not sure if I can use it dont know why this happened. engine starts hasn't been run for a few years, wants to hesitate when you get on the gas ,pump it and if comes back . would I be better off jaust going to a coil with a resister instead of trying to splice in a piece of wire?

 

6 and 12 volt coils are available.
What they did then, was when the key was in the start position it applied full battery (12 volts) to the coil for hotter spark and easier starting.
Once the key was released to the run position power from the ign sw went through a resistor, either in the wire or a block mounted on the firewall. This dropped the voltage to the coil down to 6 volts.
If you wanted to use a 12 volt coil , you didn't need the resistor. If you used a 6 volt coil , you needed a dropping resistor.

 

hi hanky I was wondering if because my resister wire appears damage if I could just run a new wire from my switch to the coil . I see I bought a coil that requires a external resister. Could you tell me if a balist resister from mopar would work and where should I put it? Would you know what size wire I should run? Thank You Hanky

 

This is where Ohms Law comes into the picture. The only problem is ,We need 2 values to figure the third and we don't have 2 values. (Current and resistance)
Most vehicles of those days just about used all the same value resistance.
If you are using a 6 volt coil, which may be printed on the coil, you should be able to use a Mopar ballast resistor, as they were called.

Because 6 volt systems ran higher currents , most used 14 gauge wire. When things were changed to 12 volt systems , 16 gauge wire was usually used.

If you can,,,,it is nice to use Red wire for wires connected to (+) sources and black for (-) minus sources. (It always makes checking so much easier if the colors are used correctly)
Wiring diagrams use various colors to indicate control and reactionary circuits.

Because any resistor will creat a certain amount of heat when carrying current, Ballast resistors were mounted on a cold surface to help disapate that heat.

 

thanx for that info Hanky that was informative and just what I needed . I got the new switch in and got it running ,took it for a ride and it kept taking off left and right . Put it up on stands and seen the drag link with the dispersal valve on the end of it has major play in it.I took it off and I think the end with the dispersal valve has a threaded piece sticking out with a roll pin in it. I am thinking that threaded piece must screw into the drag link part . there is a brass sleeve inside the drag link with the two half round cups that grab the tie rod type end that goes to the pitman it almost seems like you use grease from a grease gun to push the caps inside the drag link to keep it tight. is this possible? I have seen on catipillars they use grease to keep the tracks tight. I cannot find the drag link with the dispersal valve on the end just a drag link with one end for screwing on the tie rod , but the other end is showing cotter pin sticking out of it , nothing for the dispersal valve to bolt too. Would you know where I might find the correct drag link for my power steering could be found ? THANKS AGAIN HANKY

 

+I want too update my work on my 63 fairlane .I have learned the drag link I have been looking at, is for eliminating my power steering. The power steering assist system appears to be a system that doesn't have a lot of new replacement parts. I am looking for the brass sleeve that goes inside the power steering control valve drag link. This actually is the link that hooks up to the pitman arm . If any one out there would know of any sites where you can get any of these parts ,it would be greatly appreciated.

 

I am the only one with pwersteering issues on my 63 .This is great new , now if I could just get the parts for mine It looks like I'll never have problems again