4r70w transmission
#1
05-13-2013, 03:11 PM
Join Date: May 2013
Location: rutland il, in the country.
Posts: 16
4r70w transmission
I have a 1995 thunderbird. Direct drive clutches were burnt. I rebuilt trans with a rebuild kit. Barly moved in drive when done.Very weak in 1st, 2nd. 3rd worked strong along with rev. Drove for 2 miles then dropped pan. No clutch in bottom of pan, still clean.OD light flashes along with air bag lite when started. It flashed when I got it. Just bought a trany out of a 97 f150. What difference in transmissions is there in a 95 thunderbird w/3.8 motor vs 97 f150 with a v8. they look the same.
#2
05-13-2013, 05:01 PM
From Wikipedia:
4R70W
A revised version of the AODE was released in 1993 with the Lincoln Mark VIII. 4R70W stands for 4 gears, Rearwheeldrive, 70 number assigned by Ford which represents the input torque in Lb-Ft for which the transmission was designed times 10 (70 x 10 = 700 Lb-Ft) and Wide gear ratio. It has lower 1st and 2nd gear ratios for better take-off acceleration and improved gearset strength. On vehicles powered by a 5.4 L V8, a stronger gearset is used than in normal duty 4R70Ws. In 1998, due to durability concerns, the intermediate one-way roller clutch was replaced with a mechanical diode providing extra holding capacity and longer service.
The gear ratios are: 1st: 2.84 :1 2nd: 1.55 :1 3rd: 1.00 :1 4th: 0.70 :1 Rev: 2.23 :1
Applications:
The most practical modification for the 4R70W is the J-mod. It involves modifying the valve body gaskets and changing some accumulator springs to alter the shift timing of the transmission. It encompasses modifications specified by one of the Ford engineers that designed the transmission. It offers quicker shifting, smoother operation, and increased service life. All parts can be bought at Ford dealers for less than $60 including the fluid.
A 20,000+ GVW cooler is highly recommended for all vehicles. Breakdown of the transmission fluid often results in "converter shudder" (feels like driving over rumble strips) where converter tries to maintain a steady slip rate during lock-up, but alternates between slipping and grabbing. Frequent fluid changes, especially when used for towing, are the single best method to prevent shudder. Shudder occurs because the torque converter never fully enters "lock-up", but is designed to slip slightly during steady-state operation. The reason Ford decided to use "Steady-state-slip" is often discussed but no complete answer has been found.
I don't see the F150 listed. Are you sure the F150 has a wide gear ratio version?
4R70W
A revised version of the AODE was released in 1993 with the Lincoln Mark VIII. 4R70W stands for 4 gears, Rearwheeldrive, 70 number assigned by Ford which represents the input torque in Lb-Ft for which the transmission was designed times 10 (70 x 10 = 700 Lb-Ft) and Wide gear ratio. It has lower 1st and 2nd gear ratios for better take-off acceleration and improved gearset strength. On vehicles powered by a 5.4 L V8, a stronger gearset is used than in normal duty 4R70Ws. In 1998, due to durability concerns, the intermediate one-way roller clutch was replaced with a mechanical diode providing extra holding capacity and longer service.
The gear ratios are: 1st: 2.84 :1 2nd: 1.55 :1 3rd: 1.00 :1 4th: 0.70 :1 Rev: 2.23 :1
Applications:
-
- 1993–1998 Lincoln Mark VIII
- 1993–2003 Ford F-Series
- 1994–1997 Ford Thunderbird
- 1995–1998 Lincoln Mark VIII
- 1995–2004 Ford Crown Victoria
- 1996–2001 Ford Explorer
- 1993–2004 Lincoln Town Car
- 1994–1997 Mercury Cougar
- 1995–2004 Mercury Grand Marquis
- 1997–2004 Ford Expedition
- 1997–2001 Mercury Mountaineer
- 1996–2004 Ford Mustang
The most practical modification for the 4R70W is the J-mod. It involves modifying the valve body gaskets and changing some accumulator springs to alter the shift timing of the transmission. It encompasses modifications specified by one of the Ford engineers that designed the transmission. It offers quicker shifting, smoother operation, and increased service life. All parts can be bought at Ford dealers for less than $60 including the fluid.
A 20,000+ GVW cooler is highly recommended for all vehicles. Breakdown of the transmission fluid often results in "converter shudder" (feels like driving over rumble strips) where converter tries to maintain a steady slip rate during lock-up, but alternates between slipping and grabbing. Frequent fluid changes, especially when used for towing, are the single best method to prevent shudder. Shudder occurs because the torque converter never fully enters "lock-up", but is designed to slip slightly during steady-state operation. The reason Ford decided to use "Steady-state-slip" is often discussed but no complete answer has been found.
I don't see the F150 listed. Are you sure the F150 has a wide gear ratio version?
#3
05-13-2013, 09:02 PM
Yes, the 4r70w was used in the f-150, with just a few modifications. If anything, the gearing was even wider in the f series then the cars. There are some very small differences that really added up to major things with this trans.
This trans started life (very early) as the Automatic Overdrives Trans (AOD), then was electronified and called the AODE ('E" meaning electric control), then the gearing was messed with, and became the 4r70w or the 4r75w, which are identical for clutches, the only difference being the gearing.
The transmissions should be a bolt in trade; watch out for the bellhousings; some were different. Your going the right way, where you're taking a truck trans and putting it into a car. Here the scoop:
1) Forget about the '70' part of the designation. It means very little. Were it was one of the first trans. from ford with an input torque designation, it was overused in this capacity, and was used in a few too many heavy trucks that would destroy the trans, especially when used for towing.
2) When going from the v-6 to v-8 applications, the direct clutch went from 4 to 6 clutch plates (which is great, as the direct clutch was the weakest part of the trans).
3) After about '95 or so (I could be off a year or two, I worked on them for so long I wish I could forget about them), they all came with the newer style OWC on the reverse drum for 2nd gear; that was a bugaboo in the early years, as they used to break, especially after extended driving on the highway.
4) Though I never really had a problem with the trans (it made me a ton of money), After about 2001, it was as perfect as it got. What I mean by this is except for the weak direct clutch and the o/d servo that would intermittanly break, the hydrualics and Valve body was really good. If possible, use these valve bodies; they bolt right in and help with a lot of problems.
If I were you, start with a line pressure test; it should be over 60 psi in any forward range and shouldn't vacillate too much. If it's low, check for a pump concern (rare on this trans) or a valve hanging up (more common). In reverse it should have no problem going over 100 psi (so, beware of the gauge).
Let us know if there's anything we can help with.
This trans started life (very early) as the Automatic Overdrives Trans (AOD), then was electronified and called the AODE ('E" meaning electric control), then the gearing was messed with, and became the 4r70w or the 4r75w, which are identical for clutches, the only difference being the gearing.
The transmissions should be a bolt in trade; watch out for the bellhousings; some were different. Your going the right way, where you're taking a truck trans and putting it into a car. Here the scoop:
1) Forget about the '70' part of the designation. It means very little. Were it was one of the first trans. from ford with an input torque designation, it was overused in this capacity, and was used in a few too many heavy trucks that would destroy the trans, especially when used for towing.
2) When going from the v-6 to v-8 applications, the direct clutch went from 4 to 6 clutch plates (which is great, as the direct clutch was the weakest part of the trans).
3) After about '95 or so (I could be off a year or two, I worked on them for so long I wish I could forget about them), they all came with the newer style OWC on the reverse drum for 2nd gear; that was a bugaboo in the early years, as they used to break, especially after extended driving on the highway.
4) Though I never really had a problem with the trans (it made me a ton of money), After about 2001, it was as perfect as it got. What I mean by this is except for the weak direct clutch and the o/d servo that would intermittanly break, the hydrualics and Valve body was really good. If possible, use these valve bodies; they bolt right in and help with a lot of problems.
If I were you, start with a line pressure test; it should be over 60 psi in any forward range and shouldn't vacillate too much. If it's low, check for a pump concern (rare on this trans) or a valve hanging up (more common). In reverse it should have no problem going over 100 psi (so, beware of the gauge).
Let us know if there's anything we can help with.
#4
05-14-2013, 09:48 PM
Join Date: May 2013
Location: rutland il, in the country.
Posts: 16
Keep your fingers crossed
Yes....Greasemark I got home at 330 today and with both transmissions side by side I could see bell housings were different. Mind you this is my 1st rear wheel transmission rebuild. I did find extra clutches, less in auto more in truck. I started with a rebuild kit so I had plenty of spare parts. You said they went from 4 to 6 plates in direct drive. What is a plate? Spacer and clutch...or just clutch? The last clutches I put in "just before the pump, the biggest ones" Also had some extra clutches. seemed like all clutches had more. I have the insides from the truck, in the car casing. Everything seems good when I turn it over by hand. The truck trans had a broken snap ring but still together, and a broken star shaped plate on bottom of that ratchet thing. I replaced them. Question...should I use the truck valve body? I rebuilt most of the car valve body, It was missing 1 ball inside. Other than that I'm ready to install tomorrow after 330 pm. 
THANKS TO ALL WHO REPLIED!!!!
THANKS TO ALL WHO REPLIED!!!!
#5
07-06-2018, 07:41 PM
2003 Marauder
My mechanic says my torque converter is bad. Feels like it's slipping from 35-50mph under slight throttle, runs fine when I give it enough gas to down shift and power out of the range. What converter should I get (looking for stock operation, just want something quality/heavy duty) and should I have the j-mod done when the transmission is out? Would a regular transmission shop know how to do this mod properly? Anything I need to consider along with getting an oil cooler installed? Thanks for your time.
Yes, the 4r70w was used in the f-150, with just a few modifications. If anything, the gearing was even wider in the f series then the cars. There are some very small differences that really added up to major things with this trans.
This trans started life (very early) as the Automatic Overdrives Trans (AOD), then was electronified and called the AODE ('E" meaning electric control), then the gearing was messed with, and became the 4r70w or the 4r75w, which are identical for clutches, the only difference being the gearing.
The transmissions should be a bolt in trade; watch out for the bellhousings; some were different. Your going the right way, where you're taking a truck trans and putting it into a car. Here the scoop:
1) Forget about the '70' part of the designation. It means very little. Were it was one of the first trans. from ford with an input torque designation, it was overused in this capacity, and was used in a few too many heavy trucks that would destroy the trans, especially when used for towing.
2) When going from the v-6 to v-8 applications, the direct clutch went from 4 to 6 clutch plates (which is great, as the direct clutch was the weakest part of the trans).
3) After about '95 or so (I could be off a year or two, I worked on them for so long I wish I could forget about them), they all came with the newer style OWC on the reverse drum for 2nd gear; that was a bugaboo in the early years, as they used to break, especially after extended driving on the highway.
4) Though I never really had a problem with the trans (it made me a ton of money), After about 2001, it was as perfect as it got. What I mean by this is except for the weak direct clutch and the o/d servo that would intermittanly break, the hydrualics and Valve body was really good. If possible, use these valve bodies; they bolt right in and help with a lot of problems.
If I were you, start with a line pressure test; it should be over 60 psi in any forward range and shouldn't vacillate too much. If it's low, check for a pump concern (rare on this trans) or a valve hanging up (more common). In reverse it should have no problem going over 100 psi (so, beware of the gauge).
Let us know if there's anything we can help with.
This trans started life (very early) as the Automatic Overdrives Trans (AOD), then was electronified and called the AODE ('E" meaning electric control), then the gearing was messed with, and became the 4r70w or the 4r75w, which are identical for clutches, the only difference being the gearing.
The transmissions should be a bolt in trade; watch out for the bellhousings; some were different. Your going the right way, where you're taking a truck trans and putting it into a car. Here the scoop:
1) Forget about the '70' part of the designation. It means very little. Were it was one of the first trans. from ford with an input torque designation, it was overused in this capacity, and was used in a few too many heavy trucks that would destroy the trans, especially when used for towing.
2) When going from the v-6 to v-8 applications, the direct clutch went from 4 to 6 clutch plates (which is great, as the direct clutch was the weakest part of the trans).
3) After about '95 or so (I could be off a year or two, I worked on them for so long I wish I could forget about them), they all came with the newer style OWC on the reverse drum for 2nd gear; that was a bugaboo in the early years, as they used to break, especially after extended driving on the highway.
4) Though I never really had a problem with the trans (it made me a ton of money), After about 2001, it was as perfect as it got. What I mean by this is except for the weak direct clutch and the o/d servo that would intermittanly break, the hydrualics and Valve body was really good. If possible, use these valve bodies; they bolt right in and help with a lot of problems.
If I were you, start with a line pressure test; it should be over 60 psi in any forward range and shouldn't vacillate too much. If it's low, check for a pump concern (rare on this trans) or a valve hanging up (more common). In reverse it should have no problem going over 100 psi (so, beware of the gauge).
Let us know if there's anything we can help with.
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