Hi my cluster lcd (odometer) blackout yesterday I will like to please ask someone for a tutorial or instructions on how to remove the cluster to try and fix the lcd problem dont want to brake or damage anything

Thank you for your help

 

* BUMP *

I also need to remove my cluster and would like a step-by-step. Anyone know exactly what needs to be done to remove this thing?

 

So after a week of no response I decided to go rogue. Luckily I did not break anything and actually everything worked out fine.

1) First adjust the steering wheel tilt to the lowest possible position. Remove the dash-colored plastic trim just below the cluster to expose two screws that hold the bottom of the cluster to the dashboard. Remove those two screws.

2) Remove the lower kick panels (one plastic, one metal) to expose the wiring at the base of the steering column. Disconnect the Gear Indicator Cable from the side of the steering column, then carefully remove the end of the cable loop from the gearshift lever nub.

3) Insert a plastic screwdriver or plastic interior panel tool into the space just above the top of the cluster and the bottom of the upper dash hood and GENTLY pry the top of the cluster out.

4) Work the cluster back-and-forth until you expose the wiring connector at the top right corner. Unplug the wiring connector.

5) Gently continue to work the cluster back-and-forth making sure the Gear Indicator Cable is not hung up on the under dash wiring as you remove the cluster assembly.

That's it. Once you have the cluster out you can perform repairs as necessary. My issue was a dark data display, so I re-soldered all four of the "033" resistors on the surface of the circuit board to restore operation.

This is much easier said than done. If you are not very skilled with a 25W soldering iron bring your cluster to a pro because you will probably screw it up.

 

Hi I have the same issue thanks for the tutorial I will try it my self I hope it will work

regards

 

Best of luck - let us know how you make out!

 

Well...I finally got around and did the ones on my 04 Freestar. Being a 12/03 build date, my resisters are 27 ohms. These are micro surface mount resisters that will come off very easily with any amount of excess heat/time applied. I actually removed all 4 of my resistors and cleaned the board surface and the resistor ends. The easiest way to solder or re-flow the solder is to use a very small screw driver to hold down the reseistors in place when re-soldering.

Before removing the gear indicator cable, I placed the vehicle into 1st gear, this also provides additional room to remove the cluster assembly. I also reached up behind the dash and pushed on both lower corners. This made the cluster almost pop right out. be careful when removing your gauge needles. Mark the oil and temp needle posistion prior to removing with a snall pencil mark. You can plug the cluster back in to check your work before reinstalling the plastic faceplate to verify your fix.

 

Can someone help.
Yesterday I was on the highway for a 5 hour trip.
First I notice that the interior heat was not working any longer, then I noticed that the temperature gauge was getting close to Hot when going uphill and then back toward Cold when downhill. It is usually in the middle of the two.
Is the problem related? What needs be done to fix these problems

 

The first thing you might do if you haven't yet done it is check the coolant level in the cooling system. Most vehicles these days have a coolant recovery bottle where you can see the level. If your vehicle also has a radiator cap with the engine cool and not hot, remove the radiator cap and see what the level in there looks like. There are times when the recovery bottle appears with sufficient coolant and yet the radiator level can be low or empty. Best to check both levels if applicable.

 

Have you had any cooling system work performed lately? If so, you may have air in the system that hasn't bled out.

You vehicle uses a pressurized coolant reservoir.

Is your coolant level at the "COLD FULL" mark when cold?

Have you check to ensure that there is no debris in front of the A/C condensor or between the A/C condensor and the radiator?

Have you verified operation of your radiator fans?

If your cooling system is full and you have no heat along with the coolant temp rising and falling with engine load, you may have a worn out water pump (impeller blades worn to the point then move little to no coolant).

With a worn water pump, your cooling system is relying on basic covection cooling to move coolant thru the system.