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  #11  
Old 09-13-2011, 06:05 PM
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Hi: First of all I want to thank you very much for your help. Sorry I took so long to post results, I just changed crankshaft position sensor. First I changed the o2 sensor on bank bank 2; no change in conditions. I also changed the crankshaft position sensor and the vehicle ran perfect, no stall, did not turn off while driving, rpm where stable. I put the vihicle in drive and put the gas padle to the floor, that was great. Parked a couple of times, started slow and no problem what soever. Check engine did not come on; but I did notice something and is that when I started driving slow the transmission shifted between 0 - 15 mph smooth and 2nd shift would be at 20 mph, but some times that 1st shift would take longer between 20 - 30 mph and that shift would be a little harsh. Is the trans shifting at the correct speed and if not what can I do to make it better.

Thank you very much
 
  #12  
Old 09-19-2011, 06:42 PM
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Hi: I knew it would be a matter of time, the 2004 freestar shut down on my wife again while she was driving. The check engine light went on and the only code I got was code 2197. Can anyone help me please.
 
  #13  
Old 09-23-2011, 03:29 PM
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Underneath the van, under the driver side floor see if you have a black plastic splash guard with a control module mounted above it. If so, remove the black plastic cover so you have room to work and then remove the harness connector that plugs into the control module by gently pulling back on the release handle.

Inspect the condition of the connector pins, clean as necessary, weatherproof with silicone grease and reassemble.

If you find lots of water and/or corrosion in there you may need to replace the module, or at least remove it from the vehicle for a proper drying and cleaning before weatherproofing and reassembly.

Hope this helps!

 
  #14  
Old 10-03-2011, 08:41 PM
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Sorry for taking too long to post results. BlackSton3 I did as you said and the vehicle is running really good. I reset the check engine light after replacing both oxygen censor on the driver side and crankshaft position sensor. Now the only thing that's got me a little worry is that when the vehicle is cold the transmission shifts normal but when it heats up the first and second shift takes a little longer resulting in a harder shift. Again this happens when the vehicle heats up after driving for 10 - 15 min. Hope you can help me with that since I will be needing the vehicle on sun, have to drive 100 miles each way to a marathon " Susan G" to support cancer patients and pray that scientist find a cure for this terrible disease. Your help will be greatly appreciated.
 
  #15  
Old 10-09-2011, 09:42 AM
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Not sure how many miles you have on the van but you could be due for a transmission fluid and filter change. You'll have to remove the transmission pan to do this but it's a fairly easy job. Make sure to buy a new pan gasket - don't re-use the old one if you decide to do the work yourself.
 
  #16  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:25 AM
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Great thanks Ill do that on the weekend.
 
  #17  
Old 10-28-2011, 02:37 AM
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I read through your thread, and I own a 2004 Freestar as well and it our main family vehicle.

You replaced the crankshaft position sensor, two O2 sensors on the drivers side and cleaned out the module under the driver side floor pan.

I get the following codes from my van: P0171/174 & P2195/2197
Which point to the O2 sensors, but after doing a lot of research I am now doubting that it has anything to do with the O2 sensors at all.

My symptoms are:
  1. rough idle
  2. stalling
It seems like a fuel supply issue, and I am wondering if the fuel regulator or fuel pump or fuel filter could be the culprits.

I have not done a tune up on this since 2007, I know very bad, but in my defense this van only gets at the most about 3000 a year.
We live close to the school my son goes too, and my wife stays home mostly other than to go shopping for food.

We are being as frugal as possible to kee the gas cosumption down.

My mileage is 82000 miles.

I have yet to replace the spark plug wires, spark plugs.

I could use a new perspective on this?

Thank you.

Sean
 
  #18  
Old 10-28-2011, 12:24 PM
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If you only put about 3,000 miles a year on the vehicle, then it needs to hit the road every so often for at least a 2 hour drive at highway speeds. With most fuels now-a-days containing 10% ethanol, that leads to fuel delivery issues if the fuel sets for extended periods. Also at 82,000 miles, your ignition components are getting old/tired. I drive 18 miles a day round trip for work. My Freestar gets an extended drive at least once a week. This helps evaporate the moisure out of the crankcase. Short trips also flood the converters with excess fuel causing them to burn hotter than normal and melt causing them to plug. I would do the following:

1. Replace the spark plugs
2. Replace the plug wires
3. Replace the coil (breaks down from age/temp extremes and causes mis-fires)
4. Replace fuel filter
5. Add fuel injector cleaner and a full tank of fuel
6. Replace the air filter
7. clean the MAF sensor
8. Run the thing down the highway as I stated above.
9. After running it down the highway, reset the codes and runi it again to see if they return and see if your drivability issues have gone away.

I have a 17.5KW generator that has a 16 gallon tank on it. Even though I keep it FULL, and add fuel stabilizer to the fuel, I replace the fuel every 30 days due to the ethanol in the fuel. The fuel stabilizer is precautionary incase I forget or don't have time to do the fuel change.
 

Last edited by Use Common Sense; 10-28-2011 at 12:29 PM.
  #19  
Old 10-28-2011, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Use Common Sense
If you only put about 3,000 miles a year on the vehicle, then it needs to hit the road every so often for at least a 2 hour drive at highway speeds. With most fuels now-a-days containing 10% ethanol, that leads to fuel delivery issues if the fuel sets for extended periods. Also at 82,000 miles, your ignition components are getting old/tired. I drive 18 miles a day round trip for work. My Freestar gets an extended drive at least once a week. This helps evaporate the moisure out of the crankcase. Short trips also flood the converters with excess fuel causing them to burn hotter than normal and melt causing them to plug. I would do the following:

1. Replace the spark plugs
2. Replace the plug wires
3. Replace the coil (breaks down from age/temp extremes and causes mis-fires)
4. Replace fuel filter
5. Add fuel injector cleaner and a full tank of fuel
6. Replace the air filter
7. clean the MAF sensor
8. Run the thing down the highway as I stated above.
9. After running it down the highway, reset the codes and runi it again to see if they return and see if your drivability issues have gone away.

I have a 17.5KW generator that has a 16 gallon tank on it. Even though I keep it FULL, and add fuel stabilizer to the fuel, I replace the fuel every 30 days due to the ethanol in the fuel. The fuel stabilizer is precautionary incase I forget or don't have time to do the fuel change.
Thank you.

I already got the fuel filter, so I will be replacing that tomorrow.

My numbers are probably off. My wife drives it everyday to take my son to school during the week and I tak the van every two weeks for work and it does get the extended drive.

I am fillin up every two-three weeks, so the fuel is not sitting in there. But it does not get heavy use like 60 + miles a day.

We will start with the Fuel filter and injector cleaner.
Then the wires and spark plugs.

And then we shall move up to the coil.

Thank you.

Sean
 
  #20  
Old 10-30-2011, 02:38 AM
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Default Update to my issue...

Vaccum Leak - Causing irratical idle, and engine stall.

Ok here is what I did and what I found out.
  1. Bought a MAF sensor, plugged it in, and no resolution to my engine rough idling and dying. So I returned that.
  2. Bought one upstream O2 sensor, and was about to change it, when I stopped myself to do more research on this issue, since I do not know Fords as well, plus it is an OBDII motor and has way more sensor then I am used too. I discovered that I may have been wasting my time, so I returned the O2 sensor and got my money back, and posted up on here.
  3. I read more and searched more, and posted. I decieded to go back to basics and the cheap fixes first. Bought fuel filter and replaced it.
  4. That did not work. So I remebered what someone in another thread mentioned that he found an elbow on the backside of the intake manifold that was rotted out, and once he replace it, it fixed all his issues.
  5. So I looked all around the intake manifold, and at every hose or pipe I could see, then Bam!!! right in front of me the wholed time, the PVC pipe that goes from the plastice housing on the top of the intake manifold had a pinch in it that I always saw but never paid any attention too.
  6. I replaced that rubber elbow with a radiator hose I had laying around and then started the van back up and waited. Yay!!!! All fixed.
As you can see in the pictures below the culpurit was a vaccum leak on an rubber elbow on the PVC hose. Replaced with the blue radiator hose and walla!!! Idle and stalling issue resolved.

(And yes I know I need to steam clean the engine. Don't worry I plan on doing just that tomorrow or today actually.)
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I was already calculating what it would cost me to replace the fuel pump and stressing over the process of dropping my gas tank or buying 4 O2 sensors and replacing them, or removing the intake manifold to replace the gasket no knowing if those will all work.

It such a great joy to be able to come to these forums and learn something new everytime.

I thank all of you on the forum who contribute to the community and I will in turn post up any useful information that I learn and will pass on.

I have been part of a Honda Prelude forum for over 10 years and have learned and taught and brought back to that community, so I know how things work, and also that pictures say a 1000 words...

I will be around, thanks for your help guys.

Sean
 

Last edited by 1funryd; 10-30-2011 at 02:41 AM.


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