Break Light Issue
Basically I don't want to go to the dealer for something like this. Replaced bulbs with 1157 as specified, replaced flasher, and went through my manual's fuse map to find something pertaining to the lamps of any sort and fuses are all good. However, I noticed when I pulled the light *** for night driving and removed the break light bulb from its housing, I noticed that both filaments were lit making it look as if the break was being permanently compressed but there was no pressure being put on the pedal. Any suggestions to diagnose the problem aside from what I've done?
I just think its stupid that they'll charge me for a diagnosis check and when they should know what it is already and second, the fact that if they don't figure out the problem the first time they still charge you for the work they did initially because they'll tell me they had to figure initial problem out first to find out the one after it a.k.a. their version of a multi-step process which I find as bunch of BS
I just think its stupid that they'll charge me for a diagnosis check and when they should know what it is already and second, the fact that if they don't figure out the problem the first time they still charge you for the work they did initially because they'll tell me they had to figure initial problem out first to find out the one after it a.k.a. their version of a multi-step process which I find as bunch of BS
Found 2 green wires that I think lead to the break pedal switch. One was solid green and the other the exact color but with a skinny red line on it. The solid green one was severed but had this red and translucent blue thing connected to the part of the wire attached to the supposed brake pedal switch.

It opens like this...

If you look close enough in the center of the red thing there is a little metal piece that cuts into the wire to the wire it is clamping on. The translucent blue thing has a male plug part and the red thing has a female.

Removed the red clamp from the green wire and connected the two severed ends with a 22-16AWG butt connector. Although when the light **** is completely compressed there is no light from the rear even when you apply the break. Also when the **** is pulled to 2nd stage for parking lights and 3rd stage for headlights both filaments are lit. Do I need to take off break pedal switch to reset the lights? If so how do I remove it?
Thanks for any help

It opens like this...

If you look close enough in the center of the red thing there is a little metal piece that cuts into the wire to the wire it is clamping on. The translucent blue thing has a male plug part and the red thing has a female.

Removed the red clamp from the green wire and connected the two severed ends with a 22-16AWG butt connector. Although when the light **** is completely compressed there is no light from the rear even when you apply the break. Also when the **** is pulled to 2nd stage for parking lights and 3rd stage for headlights both filaments are lit. Do I need to take off break pedal switch to reset the lights? If so how do I remove it?
Thanks for any help
Hi, sorry for the delay. First, do you have one filament of your bulb lit when the lights are OFF and no one is pressing the brake pedal? If so, something is powering your brake lights, most likely the brake switch itself. Try to disconnect it by removing te connector from the brake pedal switch (that the one with a green wire and another with green/red wire.
Nic.
Nic.
Thanks Nic for the reply
The thing with the Ranger 'headlight switch' is there's 3 stages.
Stage 1 - OFF when the **** is fully pressed down
Stage 2 - when the **** is pulled up once the parking lamps, tail lamps, and side marker lamps are ON
Stage 3 - when the **** is pulled once more to its last position and the headlamps, parking lamps, tail lamps and side marker lamps are ON.
When the **** is in off position, break lights work only when pedal is pressed. However, when **** is pulled once to stage 2 or pulled twice to stage 3, both filaments are lit in the tail light bulb, making the break pedal filament and the parking light filament of the bulb constantly on. It only does that on stage 2 and 3. So there's something going wrong when I give power to the parking lamps that lights up the break pedal light.
The thing with the Ranger 'headlight switch' is there's 3 stages.
Stage 1 - OFF when the **** is fully pressed down
Stage 2 - when the **** is pulled up once the parking lamps, tail lamps, and side marker lamps are ON
Stage 3 - when the **** is pulled once more to its last position and the headlamps, parking lamps, tail lamps and side marker lamps are ON.
When the **** is in off position, break lights work only when pedal is pressed. However, when **** is pulled once to stage 2 or pulled twice to stage 3, both filaments are lit in the tail light bulb, making the break pedal filament and the parking light filament of the bulb constantly on. It only does that on stage 2 and 3. So there's something going wrong when I give power to the parking lamps that lights up the break pedal light.
Also, I took off the break pedal switch from the lever and removed the harness attached in order expose the naked prongs of the switch. I checked to see if the break pedal switch would work if I kept the headlight switch **** in the off position and pumped the break, the break light didn't come on so I knew I had successfully unplugged the power source. But when I pulled the **** to stage 2 and 3, both filaments were still lit even after I took off power source to the break pedal switch. I even pumped the break pedal a couple of times to make sure there was no power to the break pedal switch. So there's something going on when I give power to the filament to the parking light that it somehow gives power to my break light filament as well.
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