The accelerator pump is in the front of the bowl.the only check ball i saw was one under the bolt or screw that holds the cast piece that holds the primary tubes.I blew through and sucked through both ends of the power valve and it seems to me that it is holding pressure and vacuum.Im going to give it another thorough cleaning tonight and try it again before throwing anymore parts at it.Im inclined to think you guys are right about something clogged somewhere.I am going down to the local u-pull it yard this sunday.Parts are cheap there and i figured if i ran across another 2bbl or a 4bbl and intake i would pick it up.Ive learned to grab good stuff when you run across it.Any suggestions on carbs and intakes.Maybe a better style 2bbl or 4bbl and intake?

 

There may be a check ball in a passage you cannot see very easily.
If you can get your hands on one or two 2bbl carbs you might be able to switch float bowls and possibly get rid of the problem. I believe the accelerator pump supplies the addl fuel through the primaries if I remember correctly and that is why I am curious about that circuit. I used to love rebuilding carburetors because when they were done right the engine would sing for me. As you know the adjustments have to be done in the proper sequence and as far as I was concerned carbs when done right always performed well.

The gears just won't stop working.
What if you placed the carb on the bench with the top off and filled the float bowl with fuel and watched what it does?

 

I did try filling bowl on bench and as long as bowl is at its level it likes to be its fine.When its overfull it runs off till it levels out then stops leaking.I pulled it all apart again and am going to blow it out again shortly and try it again.In the carb sheet it only shows one check ball.Unless there is one behind a factory plugged hole i dont see a spot for another one.Fortunately no one ever taught me how to give up and quit but ill still be heading to u-pull it yard sunday to see what i can find.Ill keep posting results.

 

This may help me more than help you.
If I recall correctly there were brass tubes with holes in them that went into the wells where the primary tubes went . Are they in your carb or were they never in there?
Did this carb ever perform correctly since you got the vehicle?
Did the picture breakdown in the rebuild kit show all the parts?
Some carbs had a hidden check ball in a slot that was on the bottom of the main well and if water got in there the corrosion would prevent the ball from moving. I don't remember if this applied to the carb you are working on.

I can't find any pix showing those brass tubes I mentioned,I could be confused with another brand carb.

 

Yes those brass tubes are in there.They are pressed into the cast piece that makes up the venturis/primaries.There is a single hollow bodied slotted head screw that holds the casting in place.Inside the hollow body of the screw is a piece of aluminum solid round stock maybe a 1/8 inch in diameter and a bit over a half inch long.This is called the check ball weight and it sits on top of the check ball you are refering to.There is no corrision where the ball sits and it is the new check ball from carb kit.At the top of that screw there are two opposind holes the feed the cab when you apply throttle.Where the carb is actuall dripping from is the 2 venturies,they are a bit lower than the primaries but the area around the primary squirters gets soaked too.The carb exploded view does not show any spring inside this screw to hold down the check ball,it relies soley on the weight on this small aluminum rod to hold it down till there is enough pressure from accelerator pump to move ball up and let fuel pass through to piimarys.That is how i see if but i could be wrong.I got the truck to run when i first aquired it but it ran poorly.I changed all fluids,replaced,water pump,fuel pump,timing chain,all hoses and belts,removed and cleaned fuel tank,new fuel lines,new plugs,wires,cap,rotor and rebuilt carb.I removed all emissions,everything was cracked and check valves were all shot.Fuel tank is venting as it should.The truck runs strong off idle,has power and goes down the road smooth with the exception of a slight miss i can feel between say 10 and 30mph.I blew out carb excessively again with carb clean and air at every spot i could find.I even shook it and listened for rattles.I put carb back together this morning and fired it up.Primarys dripped.I let truck warm up good and shut it off.A couple minutes later it dumped all the fuel into the intake.Absolutely nothing has changed.Im getting nowhere.Im going to u=pull it yard tomorrow morning to look for another 2 bbl or a 4 bbl carb and intake.Ive pretty much given up on this carb.I can understand the dripping at idle if float was too high or check ball wasnt seating but it shouldnt dump gas into motor after sitting a few minutes.It seems to me i have a couple different thing going on.Truck does not run hot or overheat.This carb thing is the only issue i have with this truck other tahn that it runs great once you get it goin.I did think about making a check ball weight out of a piece of steel to ad weight but dont know if its worth the trouble.I have had this carb off and apart at least a dozen time and dont see anything wrong anywhere.

 

Ok here is what i tried.I got a fuel pressure regulator.I tried from 1-5 lbs and venturies still dripped immediately.I shut motor off and removed top of carb.Bowl was about 1/2 full.I let truck idle for quite awhile and let it get good and hot.Fuel level stayed put at 1/2 full and needle and seat and float were working fine.I shut the motor off and about 5 minutes later bowl started bubbling and fuel level was rising and carb started to empty into intake.I removed gas cap and no change.I crimped off fuel line and removed float,needle and seat for a better look.It was bubbling from accelerator pump check valve,power piston and occasionally from the jets themselves.Once line was crimped bowl stopped filling and draining into motor but continued to bubble.I pulled clamp and gas shot up out of inlet for float needle.Ie pressure in the line.Keep in mind i still had the bubbling long after fuel line was crimped.Fuel felt warm as did body of carb but not to warm to keep your fingers on.Fuel pump is new.These seemed to be air bubbles caused by internal pressure rather than bubbles caused by boiling.In other words i still havent gotten anywhere.Everything is put together correctly.This simply has me stumped.

 

There was a problem called "percolation" in which the heat from the engine causes the carb to get so hot the expanding gasoline has no place to go, but out the ventries.
An insulator placed under the carb solved the problem. Not sure if this is what you are describing , but sounds pretty close.
There were issues with the power valve gaskets and this might be checked out a little more. All I can recall was the newer one(gasket) had more gasket material around the valve circumference.

This still has the classic symptoms of a too high float level. Are you measuring the level from the proper place on the float? The rebuild kit usually shows the specification and where to take this measurement , does it?

 

I do have the thick fiber gasket between carb and 1 inch aluminum spacer plate.I have the new brass float set a bit lower than specs and venturis drip as soon as i start truck and its cold.I remember hearing about percolation but have never had it happen to me.Like i said it doesnt run hot and i have the the spacer and thick gasket.Power valve gasket is about 1/8 inch thick or so and should be enough insulation.Being that there was so much bubbling from all these places percolation does make sense i guess but dont know why.Bowl stays 1/2 full while running and doesnt overfill till its hot and i shut it off and it sits for a bit.It seems to be draining the extra gas out of the fuel filter.I am using a big clear fram plastic filter right now in line so i can make sure i cleaned tank well enough,so far there is just a tiny bit of stuff i missed but not enough to hinder fuel flow.Im going to look for another carb this morning and look at some other spacers.I may even put the old fuel pump back on just for the heck of it.After all ive replaced mechanically including new tires and some suspension stuff the truck runs and drives pretty nic

 

Trying to determine what path the gas is taking to get to the venturies.
One is through the metering jets, another is through the power valve, the accelerator pump is too high to allow the bowl to empty. I wonder if there is a crack in the main body allowing the fuel to exit? There are supposed to be anti-siphoning passages to prevent siphoning and allow an air break. If you still have the problem with a replacement carb,,,,,,,, well you shouldn't have !!

 

Just got back from junkyard.I got a carb off a 79 lincoln 351 m motor and motorcraft carb is identical to mine except it has metering rods.I also grabbed what appears to be a very newly purchased re manufactured holley from an 82 ltd only thing is motor was a 5.0.Gonna try the lincoln carb first and then the holley if i need to.Ill keep posting results.Hopefully this will help someone else down the line.