Ok gentlemen help a lady out here please!!! I have had several mechanics work on my 94 ford ranger 2.3l 4 cyl 5 speed and no one can seem to find the problem. The original problem was loosing power while driving down the road. Had to keep my foot on the gas or engine would die, however it would crank back up. I have replaced the fuel filter & had the fuel pump checked. It checked good. Then 1 coil pack was replaced. Then the plug wires & plugs were replaced. The front cover has been taken off to check the timing belt. Belt is good so it was put back on and the timing was reset. Now i have went 5 steps back because after replacing all of that....it will not start at all now!!!! The ignition control module was taken off & tested. It tested bad. The mechanic put another module on and tried to crank the truck. It back fired so bad that now i need a new muffler and it burnt up the new module. I have gotten another module to replace the bad one i bought. I also bought a maf sensor as well but have not put it on the truck because if the new ignition module is replaced, i am afraid it will burn up the 2nd new one i have bought. Now my so called mechanic is saying i need to buy a new computer for the truck. I am at my wits end and my pocketbook is empty. Can anybody please please help me out????

 

Has anyone checked the catalyctic converter? If it is plugged it can cause what you described. If air can not get out, none can get in and the vehicle will not run.

 

Sorry but it doesn't have a catalytic converter on it anymore. It had already been removed when i bought the truck 5 years ago.
Thanks for your reply though

 

Have you gone for a road test w/fuel press. gauge hooked up? It should be in spec at all times. Have you verified base compression is good? If you're worried about the MAF, disconnect it and go for a breif road test (it will run rich, but since there are no cats, i don't really see any problem) and see how it runs. If better, then you've probably hit the area to be repaired. One other very quick check is to remove the SPOUT connector (very near the DIS module) and road test. If power (which will be lower, since the engine isn't getting computed spark) is more stable and 'better', then you'll have to go into the ignition system and diag it (which would probably mean a wiring/pcm problem). Any codes in the pcm?