whats wrong? with key in the on position the check engine light is off, also on the left side of the panel are my abs and parking brake light indicators and they are also off, I replaced the bulbs, and checked the fuse, all looks good, the turn signal indicators work on both sides, the batt and seat belt indicator on the right side work, all dash lights work on both sides, don't know what else to check?

 

Could you supply us with some more info ie; make, model, year etc.?,,,,,,,,,,hanky

 

My truck is a 1996 ford F350, 460ci , automatic, PS ,PB, AC, dually with utility bed, I believe the engine check light is connected to ecm, once an error code appears it will go on and stay on until problem is solved ,I also disconnected the wire to brake master cylinder and with key on the ABS light did not go on, either way just with the key my left side 3 indicators do not work , the oil and temp gauges do work on that same side. hope this info helps, Thanks

 

When you turn the ignition switch just past the on position ,but before the start position is the area referred to as the bulb check position and all the bulbs should lite at this position. Do they? ,,,,,,,,hanky

 

I would like to advice you one time checkout your cars wiring by expert....

 

i have a 1999 f 150 w/5.4 engine light is on with a code po403 insufficent egr flow got a bad miss and engine surge about 1100 rpms smooths out about 2000rpms.ford says a hose on the throttle body goes bad anybody know which one and where its located.

 

What city you in?

 

with the key on, but just before start, batt. and seat belt light & buzzer on the right side come on , left side is dead, which are the check engine , ABS and ebrake lights do not come on .

 

It sounds like there is a problem with the printed circuit in that dash panel. There may be a broken common ground for these functions. I will check and let you know what I can find that may help you out.,,,,,,,,,,,hanky

 

If you haven't done this yet, when you removed the dash assy to replace the bulbs you need to remove some more stuff in order to get to the back of the printed circuit that feeds all the lights and meters. If you aren't comfortable doing this by all means give the job to someone capable of working with intricate parts. Anyway, when you finally get the entire instrument panel out you can see the flimsy printed circuit sheet on the back. If you trace the paths of the lights that aren't working, they probably use the same ground path. It requires a little finese and determination to trace the soldered connections. Chances are you will probably find an open ground connection on that printed circuit sheet. Of course you can always obtain another instrument cluster from a dealer or a salvage yard. Don't know what the cost would be in either case. What do you think? ,,,,,,,,,,,hanky