hey everyone...first post...new to these forums and new to my Ford...just got an 05 Escape XLT...love it

I have almost 1,000 miles on my Escape

I have heard you should change your oil on a new car after 1,000 miles...true or false?

Will additives like STP Oil Treatment or something supposedly better like Prolong actually do anything? 5W20 oil seems kinda thin on a 3.0L V6

air filter...specifically a K&N...anyone use one? good or stick with OEM?

love the Escape...but hate the Continental Contitrac tires on it...size is 235-70-16...any suggestions on different tires? also, what size can I safely move up to?

drove on the interstate when I first got it...no A/C usage...gas mileage was terrific...around 27 mpg...lately, it's been hot outside...and city driving...so, have had the A/C on...seeing my city mileage at around 16 mpg...pretty bad since the dealer sticker said 20 for city...suggestions or experience with this?

anyone have experience with chipping their Ford? any specific chip better (in my def of better, I mean more reliable...less buggy...consistent...reputable) for the Escape?

thanks in advance for anyone who responds...first American car...first Ford...so far, I love it

 

As far as oil goes, I bought my GTP new and changed the oil at the first 3000 mile mark and went with Mobil 1 5W30, been running it ever since. I wouldnt reccoment STP or any other additives in something this new. You can use a synthetic blend if you dont want a full synthetic. Thicker oil can lower your gas mileage. City mileage running the ac will greatly suffer, I would think that 16 would be about normal. My dads 3.0 Ranger pulls about 21mpg running the ac with combined city and highway driving.

For your filter, i've seen little or no gain using a drop in K&N, it all depends on the vehicle though. Spend the extra money and go with a cone filter and you'll notice a difference.

Late model computers no longer have a removable computer chip. There are "speed chips" listed on eBay that promise 20+ HP gains but theyre a joke. All they are is a resistor that plugs into the inlet air temp sensor socket, they fool the computer into thinking that its colder outside than it is, and the computer compensates by adding more fuel. In a nutshell, you wont see but 1-2 horsepower at best and your mileage will suffer even more. Hardly worth it. Go with the cold air intake, possibly a lower restriction cat back exhaust, aznd enjoy your new ride.

Congrats on the new Escape!

 

I agree with all solo says but one, I wouldn't even run full synthetic (mobil 1) until it was more broken in.

 

hey guys...thanks for the feedback

this doesn't look like a simple resistor
http://www.capa.com.au/ford_power_parts_superchips.htm

also, tires...been looking around...found that I can go from 235-70-16 up to 255-70-16 without any issues...any specific tires you recommend for good smooth quiet ride but great in rain and possibly snow for winter months?

oil...will probably stick with a good quality 5W20 oil until about 10K miles...then move to synthetic

 

Well I've got some input on a programmer. SuperChips puts out a good chip, but, if they offer it yet (your vehicle is an 05 and it's hard to find programmers for a vehicle so new, typically takes about one year to get good quality mods out for a new vehicle), I'd recommend possibly going to diablosport.com and looking over their Predator chips.

I got one with my previous truck (an 99 Chevy Silverado 5.4 V8), and for what I've seen the differences of "programming options" on the Predator are HUGELY more advanced than what I've seen on my Hypertech I currently now own for my F250 SD 6.8 V10. I had to go with Hypertech, as Predator doesn't make a programmer for a 6.8 V10. I chose Hypertech over the Superchip, as they offer dual fuel programming from 87 octane, or 93 octane, unlike the Superchip which is apparently more limited to a 91 to 93 octane fuel. With the rising costs of fuel, I figure, being able to tune to low grade fuel is definately good, especially with my gas hog.

Anyhow, back to the Predator. Diablosport offers (free of charge) upgraded tunes for download. You can log onto their site, and just download the modified tunes, and then thru a standard serial cable and their free update software, re-update your programmer with the newest modified program for the Predator programmer.

The Predator programmer seems to be quite a bit faster too. It took over 20 mins (PCM download and flash) for the initial setup of my Hypertech and the Predator (PCM download and flash) took less than 5 mins. The predator offers "real time" diagnostics as well. Plug it in, put it into diagnostic mode, and now while it's attached.... FIRE UP THE MOTOR. That's right, drive with it, and it'll log upto 5 mins of runtime data. Fan speeds, RPM, MPH, DTC's, AIR Temp, OS Sensor, KNOCK Sensor, Shift Points, Speed Limiter removal, Spark Advance, etc all of it. Oh besides monitoring all that, you can also individually CHANGE all those settings and make your OWN custom tune.

For the Ford, they (Predator) even have a utility that allows you to download and analyze those logs on your own PC, again this software is free. Predator offers a guaranteed satisfaction on their "custom tunes"' as well, where they'll have you send them that recorded output, and for a fee (100.00) they'll build a custom tune and send it to you, and if you're not happy, tell them, and they'll keep making it, until you are happy without charging you more.

Typically the Predator costs about 100.00 more than a Hypertech or Superchip, but with all the available customization options, (I paid 499.99 for the one for my Chevy two years ago), I'd definately say its worth it.

Increasing Feul milage, that can more easily be done with a high flow exhaust, and air intake. K & N has the highest airflow ratings in the market, but don't cut short the requirement to maybe look for a straight flow RAM air intake, as many factory intakes are inhibited by un-needed pockets, or bends in the pipe. The recommendation for a "cone filter" is a good one. I think your Ford already has a "cone shaped" stock filter. However, it's a more than likely a paper filter, if so then get rid of that paper OEM thing and get a high airflow filter - most are cotton fibre. You'll see gas milage increases, and in some situations, horse-power increases. K & N makes a series 2 filter system, that will include a straight AIR RAM intake, and the K & N Cone filter (average cost 300.00). I'd tell you to shop EBAY for your filters, you'll most likely find an AIR RAM there as well for your vehicle, and typically it's cheaper than anywhere else.

You can find other cone filters that are cheaper and boast about the same benefits, such as FRAM has a new line of high airflow filters, called AIR HOG. I own one, as it was about 1/2 the price of the K & N. However, the advantage of K & N is that you'll only buy one in your lifetime, as most come with a lifetime guarantee. A bit of "cleaning solution" and "charging oil" ($19.99 - but will recharge you about 3 times) and a bit of plain water from your hose in your yard and you'll be able to clean your K & N in about 15 mins. Of course you have to wait about 24 hours for the filter to dry before you spray on the "charging oil", but as soon as it's dry, spray on the oil, wait 10 mins, and put it back in your vehicle and away you go. K & N filters typically only need to be cleaned thru normal driving every 10,000 miles, or more. So this is something you can do some summer evening, clean it that night, set it out to dry in your garage that nite, and then charge, and reseat it in your truck the following morning.

As for OIL! Synthetic lasts longer, and typically has better heat, and corrosion prevention properties. There's a rumor out there (not sure how true it is) however that mentions that if you put synthetic oil in a motor with petrolium oil in it, the oil will "CLUMP" up into *****. What I do when I "got cheap" and put a petrolium based oil in my truck was, I put cheaper synthetic in aftewards with a good filter, and changed it withing 500 miles again, with some mobile 1 synthetic oil, and a performance filter to last the 3000-5000 miles to my next oil change.

Petrolium oil is great for seal leaks tho, and seats engine components better, since it's more coarse than synthetics, it's actually a good buffing component to engine parts to get rid of "frey'd" engine corners. So don't get me wrong Petrolium based oil is a good oil, as it has better bonding properties than synthetic. Because of this, 90% of most mechanics, suggest breaking in an engine with Petrolium based oil, and switching to synthetic afterwards. Depending on your application, and of course your pocket book, if you don't experience engine high loads, and over-heating then sticking with a petrolium based oil is not a bad idea. (however, I still recommend synthedic - after the break-in period - I would give it a couple 1000 miles actaully.).

Definately stick within manufacturers specifications on the oil and weight tho. Unless you experience extremely cold, or extremely hot weather for longs times of the year, and have huge payloads to worry about, stick with the factory specs. The factory does a pretty good job of rating the fluid systems on their vehicles, and that 5W20 or 5W10 recommendation they suggest will in deed give you the best performance. Someone out there will most likely argue that with me, but I stand firm on it.

Tires, that's all your preference, ask your dealer about their differences, that's what they're paid for. However, keep in mine the larger the tire, the more your gas mileage will go down. Bigger tires mean more torque/horse power for them to spin. Plus bigger tires, typically mean changing your speedometer configuration to support your tire sizes. If you increase your tire size by an inch, and you're driving down the road at about 70MPH by your speedometer, keep in mind that actually you're traveling about 75MPH and the cops RADAR will pick you up. That MPH figure may be a bit high/low, but it's close.

Anyhow, I'm no expert, I admit it, but that's my best experience above, maybe I'm full of "doo-doo". If I am, I'm sure I'll hear about it.

Thanks for the time! Let me know how your performance chip goes.

 

thanks for the feedback again

mine comes stock with a flat panel air filter...K&N makes a drop in...will look for the cold air intake or p-flow style with a cone filter...I had a K&N in my german performance car...cleaning was a snap...the biggest issue was to make sure you don't spray too much red oil back on the filter as it messes with the sensors

as for oil, you can mix conventional with synthetic with no adverse effect...remember that there are semi-synthetic oils on the market...I am told by the dealer that my Escape comes from the factory with synthetic 5W20 oil...he said I could move to conventional 5W30 if I want or stick to something like Mobil1 5W20

as for the "chip"...I will look into it

I will say that I replaced the stock headlight halogens with Nokya high output bulbs...what an amazing difference...will now go get the bulbs for the foglights as well...seriously, there must be double the light output and they are so white that they look almost like an HID system

still looking for feedback on tires...quite riding for dry/normal conditions, reasonably good handling, good in rain, and light snow (northern VA/DC area weather)...current size is 235-70-16...but I am told by Merchant's that I can go as high as 255-70-16

again...thanks for all the input so far...I will update how things are going...maybe will take a few pictures as things progress