I'll re-check the inertia switch according to your instructions above.....

 

Oil press system is not involved here.
If you are looking at the diagnostic plug, turn it so that all 4 of the holes in it are with the horizontal bottoms of the holes are on the bottom. The right hand most terminal when grounded will energize the fuel pump relay when you turn the ignition on. You should hear the pump(s) running. If you can set this up and when the pump stops running you could ground the terminal and see if the pump starts running again. If it does that could mean a few things.
1. You lost the ignition signal to the computer
2. There is a bad connection somewhere for the pump
3. The pump itself is suspect
4. The computer is suspect
I'm going to look back at the earlier posts and see if we really have a fuel problem or an ignition problem.
They did have some problems with the early original computers where a ground would open and the signals were lost. We usually don't condemn the computer until we exhaust all the other possibilities.

 

I have two pictures here......which one is the oil pressure sending unit? These are photos from another 302 efi.....I'll run the obd check as you mentioned. Just put that oil unit issue out there because my bronco would die the same way and it was the oil pump being defective causing it to die. But nevertheless I'll hook up the ODB and run it accordingly and come back with my findings. thanks hanky.......you're a great help

 

Looking around the dist cap I found the oil pressure sending unit (I guess the other picture with the oil filter area shown is for the oil gauge?) It appears that it is leaking as I noticed wet oil around the sending unit. I got in the van, turned it to the on position and the oil gauge didn't move. Started the van and it moved over towards high but within normal. checked oil and full. Turned it back off and gauge returned to left side (low).FYI

 

You are really taxing my memory now. As I recall the oil pressure sending unit was on the driver's side of the engine block, below the head and toward the rear of the block. It was a fairly large circular unit about 1 1/2 in in diameter. To confirm that just remove the wire attached to it and start the engine. You should get no oil pressure reading.
I can't tell from the pix what type unit you found in the distributor area. It might be a temp sending unit.

 

how to remove TFI module from side of dizzy without removing dist.? Noticed that the thermo housing is in the way of the last bolt of the TFI......anyone with an idea as to how to get that last bolt out? I think the TFI may be bad causing the van to stall while driving or die while idling. Checked the oil sending unit, the fuel pumps, filters, relays, coil, plugs and wires, voltage reg etc. and no closer to anwer. Returning to ignition area to check all those areas. Apparently the guy I got the van from had replaced the steering column because of some rods going bad inside. The ignition tumbler on the van sux to say the least. When you start it it (the tumbler) doesn't spring back to on but stays at start (but doesn't cause starter to continue working). I manually turn it back to the on position. During the winter trying to turn the tumbler is a problem.....feels as if it's frozen in place but will turn with effort. When van dies all lights, etc., are still on.....just engine dies (and I suspect ex. fuel pump whines down before it dies) So, Im back to ignition now.....any ideas as to testing the ignition on the column with test light to see where losing power? thanks

 

If you suspect a possible problem with the ign switch that's easy to confirm. Just hook the test lite to any fuse in the fuse panel that is energized when the key is turned on then just watch it while running. I think you may be in a better direction going after the ign system.
Just mark the position of the distributor and block at the holdown then loosen it to move for removing the TFI module. When installing the module just be sure to use heat sink grease between the module and dist housing to help dissipate the heat and the module will live longer. When done place the dizzy back in the same location as marked and you're ready to go.

 

Yeah, I agree with you on the ignition. I'll run the test light to a fuse energized and watch as it runs. The TFI is the original one and I was going to replace it weeks ago until I came across that last bolt......but I seen a wrench I can use to remove it with if it's the problem once I check it out. thanks again.

 

ok...re-attached the air cleaner housing hoses to the throttle but before I did that I pushed on the electrical connector of the tfi and noticed different electrical tape on the wires (apparently someone has been in the wiring). attached the hoses and around 4:03pm placed a test light on a fuse as you suggested and started the van. Just now turned it off (4:49pm). The light didn't go out and the van didn't stall out after reaching normal operating temp. I drove around the block and didn't die. Will have to examine those wires more closely but that was odd that it didn't cut off this time. perhaps the TFI was/is loose and the several potholes and crappy road construction we have here in cincinnati may have contributed to it coming loose or something. I dunno....but it was definitely odd that it didn't die on me this time. Can't I start the van up and just wiggle the tfi wires around and possibly give the tfi a wiggle too to see if that is what is causing it to die?

 

Sure you can, just be careful around moving parts. Anytime you see wiring that does not seem right , it pays to remove the tape and see why it's taped. If you see anything where the wire has been spliced , if possible, solder it together. Then you can tape it if necessary. You probably found the problem , let us know how you make out. Thanks!