'96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.

So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.

Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.

Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?

All ears

 

You might consider trying this,
Connect your voltmeter to a good ground and the positive lead to the heavy positive cable connection at the starter , . Attempt to start the engine and see what battery voltage you are getting at the starter. If it is below approx. 9.6 v0lts , there is a problem with a corroded battery cable or one of the connections from the battery to the starter or possible starter problem.
Let us know what you find.

 

Thanks that sounds like a good first step.

Was wondering, is what I'm seeing consistent with a bad starter?

 

As you probably know there is a chain of events and conditions that must be met for the engine to start.
We usually start with the most likely possible causes and eliminate them by checking and confirming before diving right into replacing a possibly good starter.

Instead of constantly removing relays, all you need to do is inerrupt the power to one of the relays with a switch that only you know where it is and you accomplish the same thing.

 

Thanks for the kill switch advice. I'll be doing that soon as I get the chance. I've been taking out the relays for a temporary measure. Plan is to install a kill switch into the fuel pump relay, that way even if the starter is bridged the engine still won't fire. Only issue is the relay is installed in a large bank of relays and fuses in the engine compartment and hasn't been moved in 24 years. Installing the switch means getting that harness out and screwing with the wires underneath.

 

Turns out it's the starter. Cleaned both batt terminals and engine ground and got nothing. Tapped the starter a few times and it fired right up. I'm getting advice it's probably my starter solenoid and that I should just replace that at about 1/4 the cost of the starter. I've always heard when starters get old their elec connections wear and tapping is what remakes the connection again. I've never heard of just the solenoid going bad so I'm not sure what to think. Should I do the just the solenoid or the whole starter w/ a lifetime warranty?

If the whole starter what kind should I look for? Want something decent with a warranty but not too expensive. Do most people just go for something like an Ultra from Oreiley's with the lifetime? I've got a 70$ credit at Napa so I was thinking maybe one of their reman Bosch around $120.

 

If you like removing and replacing starters, you can try just replacing the solenoid.
Usually, when a tap or two gets the starter to operate it is because the brushes were either stuck or worn down.
To verify which it is , just remove the 2 long bolts that hold the starter together and look at the brushes. They should be approx 1/2 - 3/4 in. long. If shorter , limited life.
If there is any doubt, just replace the starter since you already have it off. Which one you choose is up to you. Most rebuilt exchange starters will do the job .Make sure you compare your old starter to the replacement before attempting installation. The replacement should be exactly the same. Starters for manual trans are different from auto trans.